This year’s Mardi Gras break trip is to Greece! We will be spending 9 days total- 7 days in Greece, 2 traveling.
We started out Thursday evening after Norah got out of school and I was done with work- on a flight out of New Orleans direct to London. This was exciting because every time we fly international, we usually have to make the 5 hour drive to Houston but being able to fly right out of NOLA was *chef’s kiss*.
After the 8 hour flight to London we had a couple hours in Heathrow – Norah got a burger but nothing else to really write about.. then we got on our Athens flight- another 3.5 hours and by this point we were all sleepy-eyed. Most of this flight was just us sleeping.
By the time we got to Athens, it was 6:30pm local time. It took about 40 minutes to get through passport control… but our taxi was there waiting for us. Drove us the 45 minutes from the airport to our hotel on the north side of Athens- the Brown Acropol.
I was a little apprehensive because we were watching a YouTube guide to Athens and the guys was like “don’t book a hotel north of xxx street” and when I checked the map, we were two blocks north of “that” street. ha I had read a hundred reviews or so of the hotel prior to booking and the reviews seemed good and no one talked about it being a bad area. So we decided we’d show up and if we didn’t like it, we’d just get an Uber somewhere else. It was just fine….
On arrival at the desk, the guy asked if we would like a complimentary Prosecco while we check in- we said sure. And out came 3 glasses of prosecco. One for Kegan, one for me… and one handed to Norah. hahaha I 100% told her she could drink it if she wanted. She was served champagne, she could drink champagne. lol Miss Rule Follower waited until we got into the hotel room, then tried a sip and promptly handed it to me. haha Our room is basically a big 2 bed apartment with 2 bathrooms, a kitchenette and an entry room. There is a little record player in each room with a library of vinyls in the lobby you can swap out. The room has two balconies- one off of each of the bedroomsNorah enjoyed the disco ball in the hall and dances to the music every time we leave. Since it was already late, we just crossed the street to a little restaurant with good Google reviews and were not disappointed. The guy talked us into ordering way more food than we planned to because he said he would make “for 1 person size” lol he did NOT in fact make “for 1 person size” the meals were big. and cheap. Each plate was $12 or under.Greek lamb kebab for meGrilled pork skewers for NorahMeat sampler for Kegan – chicken souvlaki, pork souvlaki, grilled sausages of some sort. It was all excellent. We all ate off of each other’s plates until we were miserable and thirsty from all of the salt. ha
After dinner, it was back to the room around 11pm and time for bed. I was out about 5 seconds after my head hit the pillow.
For Day 2, which is really our first day in Greece, we started with hotel breakfast on the roof with a view of the Acropolis. It had a good spread for a hotel buffet breakfast – rasher bacon, eggs, sausages, norwegian specialties like pickled herring, anchovies and smoked salmon, cold cuts and cheese. Greek specialty pastries and breads as well as juices and coffee – and it was included with the room price, so it was fine with us.
Our first stop after breakfast was the National Archeological Museum.
It was a large museum with TONS of ancient pottery and small pieces. Here were some of my favorite items:
The Jockey of Artemision. It’s from approx 140 BC and cast in bronze. Found in a shipwreck, which explains why it survives since almost all bronze was melted down over the years for weapons and war. Gold death masks from MycenaeMore Mycenean Gold Mycanean death mask of Agamemnon – we’ll be visiting his tomb where this was discovered on Day 5Bronze sword with stone and gold inlaid handle.The Antikythera Mechanism – the world’s first “computer” – discovered in a shipwreck after 2000 years under water in 1901.. with mechanical dials that could track multiple celestial events and calendars. This technology wouldn’t be seen again for 1500 years after the age of this piece. Norah’s favorite- the derpy short horse. Preserved frescos from Santorini from the Ankrotiri site. Rock crystal and bronze poppy pods The bronze Artemision ZeusNorah isn’t a huge museum person… but she usually sits patiently on whatever bench she can find until we’ve seen what we want.
After leaving the museum, we walked through the city to some other sites. I love all of the orange trees lining the streets.
Sculpture in Klafthmonos squareKegan told me to pose so I could be a part of the pictures today.Panagia Kapnikarea church – an 11th century Byzantine church amazingly still standing in the middle of a modern square
Next Norah decided that a gelato shop we passed looked good so we stopped…and this was a great decision. Maybe the best ice cream I have ever had… a chain called Kayak Pure Magic Ice Cream. I recommend you look it up in Athens.
After a late lunch we had a two hour rest in the hotel and then headed out to catch an Uber to our evening activity- a 3 hour escape room at Paradox Project.
With no spoilers- the basic idea is that our uncle had invited us over to the mansion, but when we arrived, we found that he had been kidnapped and we have to find clues to help him and find his hidden jewel. Once we found our way through most rooms, we learn that he actually faked the kidnapping and we are being framed with a fake jewel while he escapes with the real one… and we have to solve more puzzles before the police arrive.
We escaped and completed all puzzles. Our game master said she was very impressed with us. We were a great team and did better than almost all teams. We didn’t tell her we’ve now done over 100 escape rooms. ha
We didn’t want a whole sit down meal at 11pm, but we wanted something…so we stopped by a little turkish food stall right outside the escape room venue.
I forgot to take photos until we were halfway through eating… but we got a couple pizza boat things with egg and bacon, and pepporoni, a sausage filled phyllo dough rope thing ( on the right above) and a pig in a blanket hot dog thing. They were all greasy but good, and total was $15 for everything plus drinks.
In Italy and apparently in Greece this sell this Bitter Lemon drink… it is a lightly carbonated lemonade with bitters and I love it. So excited to have these this week.
Hello again! Norah is officially done with 7th grade and it’s Memorial Day weekend, so it gave us a great week to plan our summer trip before the camps and all other summer activities start.
We left New Orleans Friday evening after work headed to New York City.
Nice view of the causeway bridge over Lake Pontchartrain on our way out.
Arriving to JFK airport was pretty lackluster, a huge walk to the air train, riding that out to a pickup point, waiting 30 minutes for a hotel shuttle… but we were staying right at the airport at the Marriott JFK.
We ordered some Halal food via Uber Eats to the hotel as it was 11pm. It was great! Lamb gyro, chicken schwarma, rice and a spicy sauce.
Saturday started with storing our luggage at the hotel and heading out to explore Brooklyn. Breakfast wasn’t anything to write home about but it made a little girl very happy. Lol White Castle! Norah loves White Castle- always has since she was a toddler. We always have to buy the frozen burgers when we travel or live where there were no restaurants… and I have to say the burgers with real egg on them- I’m pretty happy with them as well.
After breakfast we hit the metro to Botanic Garden to go to the Brooklyn Museum.
Only to arrive and go-WAIT- we’ve already been here. Haha so…. change of plans – back on the subway to the New York Transit Museum!
It is fittingly located inside a metro station undergroundDid you know the New York Transit Authority had a marching band?? ha
Under the museum, another level down were all the historic metro subway cars! This was the super cool part.
A still operational control board at the office in the station of the museum.
After the transit museum, we caught the subway back out to Queens to visit the Louis Armstrong house museum.
They have set up a museum and center housing a few items of his across the street from the actual house which is preserved basically how the Armstrong’s left it.
This original photo of King Oliver’s band (before Louis joined them) was special to me… because I literally have a print of this in my living room that Kegan bought for me for Christmas one year. A 6 page handwritten letter Louis wrote as a love note to his neighborhood in Corona, Queens. As a dirt-poor kid who was in a orphanage and then traveling for music and shows his whole life and having 3 marriages end… this house was his first and only “home” he really ever had.
There were no photos allowed inside the house… which always irks me… but I complied… The front sitting room had amazing collected items from around the world, the upstairs den had tons of tapes and records and recordings and had a painting on the wall that Tony Bennett painted of Louis Armstrong. There was a very Las Vegas Liberacci bathroom of all mirrors… and then a World’s Fair inspired futuristic kitchen with teal slick lacquered doors, curved cabinets, a built-in blender in the counter and hidden storage in the backsplash.
After the tour, we headed to Jackson Heights to my favorite Nepalese restaurant for dumplings.
Norah’s Coke can invited her to have a Coke with Dude (the name of her cat she was already missing) ha
After dinner it was time to go back to grab our luggage from the luggage from storage and head to the airport for our overnight flight to London. We had upgrades to Premium cabin on Virgin Air, so we got bigger leather seats, better meals, and champagne at takeoff. Norah got orange juice to toast. ha
The flight was uneventful, arriving at Heathrow early. We took the London Underground to our hotel in Shepherd’s Bush, on the west side of London.
We took a 2 hour nap to try to get enough energy to go be tourists, then we set out, headed to 221b Baker Street.
We wasted $60 on tickets to the Sherlock Holmes museum… which was really just a kitschy little “tour” of Sherlock Holmes’ real apartment and items from his “life”. It was done so strangely I actually had to ask Kegan “He wasn’t ACTUALLY a real person, right???”
After Sherlock’s house, we got some terrible coffee and then headed downtown to see some other sights.
Big BenSt James ParkPrincess Diana Memorial WalkOutside Buckingham PalaceNorah outside of Buckingham.The Queen Victoria MemorialA very old arcade of shops that looked very photogenic. Picadilly CircusChinatown area just north of Picadilly
For dinner, we dipped into the Seven Dials market full of food stalls to have a seat at the rotating cheese counter called Pick & Cheese. We ate so. much. cheese. ha It was fantastic. Each cheese was paired with a sauce or a side, like kimchi, a brownie, a caramel, a tomato chutney… they were all great.
Maybe one of the worst photos captured of me in the background… but gotta stick it in here for Norah. She was a big fan of the cheesecake. Cornish Kern with a Brown Sugar BiscuitSt Ella goat cheese in a French crottin style with a Rose turkish delight. Lucky Marcel with a Apricot Jam Gorwydd Caerphilly with Picalilli – a savory mustard chutneyPerl Las Welsh blue cheese with a chocolate and hazelnut brownieYogurt, Lemon and Honey Cheesecake
After dinner, we headed across to the East end of London to play our scheduled escape room at Escape Plan near Spitalfields. We arrived about an hour early… so we went upstairs in the same venue which was a movie theater with a bar and we got pints of cider and Norah tried a new soda she had never heard of called Vimto. Turns out Vimto is very popular in the UK and has been around forever- it contains the juice of grapes, raspberries, black currants and black carrots flavored with herbs and spices. She was a big fan.
We booked the room “Pushed for Time” which had us going through time in our time machine- we had to travel back to 1920’s France and then the 1800’s Oxford to recover items to stop the murder of the time machine designer. It was a fantastic room! We had so much fun. The time machine (where our photo is below) had to have a code keyed in that then started a time travel sequence that required us to select day vs night, the type of music we wanted and our destination…then proceeded to take us on a 2 minute dance party while it “transported” us to a different time. We very much enjoyed ourselves. ha
We were all so tired at this point, we had to take turns falling asleep on the tube for the 45 minute ride back to our hotel. ha
We grabbed takeway right next to our hotel from a turkish restaurant.
Lamb chops and kebab… good stuff.
After a good sleep, we were up Monday morning, heading to Paddington station to catch the Great Western Rail train to Oxford for the day. It was a bank holiday in UK, so not too many people out and about around 8am.
An Ox statue right outside the Oxford train station. Waiting on the museums to open at 10am, we swung by the Castle grounds. The castle was built by the Normans when they arrived in Britain in 1071-1073. It still functioned as the local jail until 1996. The Castle Motte
We lucked out and the Story Museum which is normally closed on Mondays was actually open on bank holiday Mondays! So we queued up to go in as they opened.
After the cutesy little story museum, we headed to the Ashmolean Museum, which is Oxford University’s museum of art and archeology- founded in 1683.
We were all starving by the time we finished that museum and Norah asked for Shake Shack which was just down the street. I was a bit disappointed that we were eating something we can get at home… but we did. $75 for Shake Shack! haha I’m still upset about this. ha
Our last stop was the Oxford Natural History museum which has been open since 1860. The neo-gothic building housing the majority of the exhibits was amazing. The absolute derpiest Beaver I have ever seen. haha I have no idea of his story… but it has to be good. haha The largest Crinoid cluster specimen we had ever seen.A full flower specimen of Crinoid. I have NEVER seen one intact like this! This was collected by the scientist Lamark. As in “Lamarkian theory of evolution” predating Darwin… Kegan was like “these were like THE SCIENTISTS that discovered everything! These are THE SPECIMENS they were using!” He was nerding out a bit. haha They also had specimens from Linnaeus, a Swedish scientist from the 1700s who is considered the father of modern taxonomy. Kegan found it mind-blowing to be looking a samples collected by the people who quite literally wrote the books that you study. A Gigantoproductus – a GIANT brachiopod. You can find these around Indiana, but only like an inch at most… this was massive. Cast footprints of a MegalosaurusHertford Bridge, known as the Bridge of Sighs, because of its similar look to the Venice Bridge of Sighs we also recently saw! It joins two buildings of Hertford College. This is the Sheldonian Theatre which is a city theater but also where the graduation ceremonies of Oxford University are held. We also tried to visit the Bodleian Library, the UK’s second largest library with over 11 million works, established in 1602. They do architectural tours daily, but they were all sold out by the time I realized we would have time to do one… oh well.
Oxford was very sparse in the morning… but by the late afternoon it was a madhouse of people… we decided to go ahead and head back since we could take any train. We had reserved seats on the 6pm train but the lady told us we could take any seat that wasn’t reserved on an earlier train… so we headed out for the 4pm train. It was SO PACKED by the time it arrived late that we had to stand in the space between the cars with 20 of our closest friends for an HOUR back to London. By the time we realized what was going on, it was too late to abort and wait for another later train. ha Oh well, we survived. But my feet were not happy about two full days of walking and literally heading back early because we were all tired from walking and standing all day. Not a fun extra hour. ha
We took a couple hour nap again before heading out to our escape room for the night and dinner.
We booked the official BBC TV Sherlock escape room… but we had a bit of a struggle finding out how to get in…
Turns out, it was through this fake Optician’s office. ha Only reason we thought it COULD be the room was because what optician is open at 8pm?? ha so we gave it a shot and the lady inside asked why we were buzzing her… we said “to play an escape game?”… she said “why would you ring the optician’s to play a game?” and really had us for a sec until we figured out we had to tell her were there for an eye exam as a cover for the covert Sherlock operation we were going to be a part of…
Of course we were successful! We got out in 45 minutes- the handler told us our gamemaster called out to her to be sure to tell us we were “brilliant”. lol There was an issue with a bike pump we were supposed to be using to get a machine to work so she gave us our photos for free. I think they were pretty fun. lol
We walked a couple blocks to a posh-looking Pakistani restaurant and I think it was my favorite meal in London. It was a small place called Little Lahore.
We had pappadam to start, a mixed grill of meats and a butter lamb with naan bread as well as some cocktails and mocktails. We left very happy and ready for bed and ready to pack up and head to Ireland.
Tuesday morning, we had to get up super early at 5:30am to take the tube to Liverpool Station to catch the Greater Anglia Stansted express to Stansted Airport. We made it through Priority security quickly so we sat down for some proper breakfast.
The flight was quick, just a little over an hour into Shannon airport outside of Limerick. The rental counter guy made sure we had actually driven on the other side of the road before. Apaprently this is a common enough problem with American tourists that they feel the need to check. lol
We headed out for our 2.5 hour drive down to the Dingle peninsula where we booked a house for 4 nights.
Driving through Blennerville with a glimpse of their windmill. Elphin- the town we lived in- was one of the only other towns in the country with a working windmill tower that had not been destroyed. We stopped off at Minard Castle as our first stop on the peninsula. It is my happy spot in Ireland. It’s just so gorgeous and wild. I love it.
We stopped at the grocery to get a few items before heading to the house.
We looked like a group of unsupervised children in the grocery buying every crisp and sweet we ever liked in Ireland for the week! ha
We wanted to find something with decent food, not a chipper, but not fancy that we would have to change clothes… and decided on a place called Ashe’s Restaurant in Dingle town. They had Guinness and Bulmers on tap…so I was happy.
Crab claws in a garlic butter saucePrawn risottoLocal John Dory fish specialView from the top of Connor Pass driving back across to our house.
Wednesday started later, I slept like 12 hours. Ha it was glorious. Woke up to this rooster outside our door giving us the wake up call.
I’ve had worse views while drinking my coffee.
We went out and about driving in the morning, heading north, first to Galway for lunch at maybe my favorite restaurant in Ireland, Moran’s Oyster Cottage.
They added a new outdoor seating garden for folks without reservations (and that was us!) so we sat outside in a sauna of a tent since it was such a sunshiny day in Ireland! I swore I wasn’t going to complain about being too hot in Ireland from the sun lol but after shedding sweatshirts and drinking a cool draught cider and STILL boiling, I had to start complaining a little by the end. ha
A dozen local Gigas oystersA 7th generation family recipe seafood chowder with brown breadFish and chips, of course, for NorahKegan and I both had our own Seafood platter with salad, smoked salmon, shrimp with marie rose sauce and 2 crab claws and crab meat.
After, we were off to County Roscommon to see a few folks from where we lived. Our first stop was to see our friend Anne-Marie and her kids. Henry went to school with Norah and that’s how we met them… and Henry’s younger sister Anna-Martha who was only about 3 years old the last time we saw her, she’s grown a bit! ha It was like we just left there yesterday, they played and talked and ran around the farm. It was great.
The famous St Patrick’s Parade in Elphin that Norah was in the paper for. ha Henry dug it out to show Norah in case she didnt remember! ha Anne-Marie’s wild Irish Roses in the hedge that smelled absolutely wonderful! Had to photograph them. When we lived there I made elderflower syrup from elderflower blooms in these same hedgerows.. and Anne-Marie remembered that! ha
After seeing Anne-Marie, Michael and the kids, we headed across town to see Sean and Michelle and their boys. Sean helped us finish out our house when we remodeled it and the whole family are just super good people. It was great to catch up with them for a couple hours.
At 10pm, we still had to make the 4 hour drive back to Dingle… and we made it! barely. ha Kegan was a champ at driving that far, that late.
Thursday we slept late, fried up a full Irish breakfast and then we just went around exploring a bit of Ireland, driving through small towns we had never been to before, checking real estate prices for homes we’ll never buy lol
Kanturk Castle- 1580s Irish chieftain’s fortified house
We made our way to Adare town to eat at a restaurant Kegan has been following on Instagram for around 8 years. They have multiple Michelin awards, Best of Ireland awards- the chef and owner, Wade Murphy is featured on TV a lot in Ireland… and he was very excited to finally get to eat here at 1826 Adare.
Monkfish scampi for a starterI had the Chicken Liver Mousse with a sourdough and bacon jamRump of Lamb with broccolini, peas, broad beans, crisp croquette and salsa verde for me.Short ribs on celeriac puree with pearl onion bacon onion horseradish sauce for KeganPan roasted cod fillet with potatoes and beurre blanc sauce for Norah. She was the first one done. Ate every bite. Side of broccolini with crispy onionsFor dessert I had a tasting flight of ports- a ruby, a tawny and a vintageClassic creme brulee with blood orange sorbetMilk chocolate Cremeaux with dark chocolate brownie, hazelnut crunch and a coffee ice cream
Overall the food was amazing, the first courses were going wonderfully then a large group of 15 drunk old rich American businessmen came in and were the loudest most obnoxious group complaining about their wives, their country club golf membership cost per year, watching porn on VR headsets, getting their wives breast implants and just being all around grade A jerks…. Kegan was fuming mad that they were ruining his experience… so by the end, he was definitely ready to go… he said if he ever had a restaurant, he’d go broke before he let entitled assholes ruin an entire restaurant’s evening. But, that’s why American’s have the reputation they have around the world for being loud, brash and obnoxious- those types of guys are our ambassadors to the world.
Two hours back home after the restaurant and still light outside at 10:30pm. Love Ireland in the summer!
Friday was our no plans day of just jetting around and seeing what we could find.
Forgot to photograph my “99” before I started eating it… Ireland has .99 cones in almost all their petrol stations – but now they cost 2-3 euro. lol Still amazing and what our Dairy Queen ice cream used to taste like 20 years ago.
We found a great view over the Kenmare Bay on our way to the Ardgroom Stone Circle on the Beare Peninsula.
Love these little ladders for helping the hikers and tourists see the sights without disrupting the sheep fences.
Next we headed over the Healy Pass on along the south of Ireland… and my goodness. This is the point I decided I wasn’t ever going home. ha Norah said it was so pretty it looked like AI and there was no way this was a real place.
We ate lunch in Bantry at a little pub. Nothing great, but a dry cider on draft and seafood chowder.
We passed through the little town of Dunmanway one day before their famous Star Wars festival weekend. So the town was all decorated up,. We saw a mandolorian, then yoda, then baby yoda, then Han Solo… and we were like, what the heck is going on??? haha looked it up and we were just one day early!
We ended up back in Dingle town, grabbed an order of Monkfish and chips and smoked cod and chips because I had a list of 3 things to get in Ireland- real batch bread, a cider on draft and smoked fish and chips. ha Couldn’t find the right bread, had PLENTY of draft cider, so this was #3 for the last night.
We all shared the fish and chips, packed up our bags and cleaned up the house… and we were out Saturday morning, headed back for our 2 hour drive to Shannon airport. We flew RyanAir to London Gatwick, took the Gatwick Express train to Victoria station in London, where we booked the Doubletree Hilton at the station to make it easy to head to Heathrow airport Sunday morning.
We grabbed Turkish food at a takeaway close to the hotel, I had another draft cider from the bar and I wrote up this summary while Kegan and Norah “existed” in the hotel room. (As “existing” is what Norah said she wanted to do when I asked what she wanted to do around London Saturday evening) haha
Sunday was an uneventful flight on Virgin Air back to JFK, a terrible Lyft ride at 20-30 under the speed limit through Brooklyn, Staten Island and New Jersey to Newark airport, then a United flight back to New Orleans (delayed 20 minutes) to get us back home just after midnight. The cats were thrilled we were back home and life was now back to normal.
No more trips or adventures planned for the rest of the year at this time as I have multiple work golive events between July and November… but we’ll see what last minute trouble I can find to get us into.
Norah had 3 days off school for her Spring Break this year so I decided to take a couple days off of work and decided we would explore the Denver area for a long weekend because we could get cheap flights on Frontier, I had Marriott points for the hotels…and we had never been! We were supposed to leave New Orleans at 7pm, but on our way into the airport they delayed us until 9pm, then again to 9:40pm departure, putting us into Denver around 11:45pm. By the time we got our rental car and got to our hotel, it was about 1am, but we were happy to be here- knowing that when you book the budget airlines, that doesn’t always happen! Ha
The only thing notable at midnight on the way to the hotel
Friday morning we slept in a bit longer than I had originally planned because of the flight delay and the fact that within the last week a winter storm had developed and the south area of Denver was unexpectedly going to dealing with up to a foot of snow where I had planned to spend our first day… so my itinerary was getting whittled down quickly.
We started our morning at a Mexican burrito truck. One thing about the western US, breakfast means breakfast burritos and I’m here for it!
Our first site of any significance was Garden of the Gods, a red rocks formation with a drive thru park and hiking trails.
Kegan had warned me, back in his Geology camp days, they came through here… and he said it was skippable… but since we literally had to drive through it to get to the Springs where we were headed, it didn’t make sense to skip.
But… that’s it. That’s the Garden of the Gods. lol Just those red rocks. ha I couldn’t believe how famous the park name is when THIS is literally it. The back side of the same rocks. Balanced rock that you exit through.
Right on the edge of Garden of the Gods was the Manitou Cliff Dwellings so we swung in here and spent $45(!!!) to see a recreated cliff dwellings and a museum and gift shop. 100% a skip lol
I learned after that this cliff dwelling was created around 1907 to try to divert tourists to the area… and the stones were actually looted and stolen from a real Ancestral Puebloan site near Cortez. The family that built this still runs it… and apparently its highly controversial, even to this day. I had no idea at the time. But we definitely were like…ok… you ready to go? ha
After that visit, we headed on down to Manitou Springs for a stop at Miramont Castle, a chateau built in 1895 by a french-born catholic priest named Father Jean Baptist Francolon. He was born into a wealthy aristocratic family and immigrated to the US after being recruited to serve as a priest in the Santa Fe area. He spent almost 10 years touring around the southwest to various mission churches and chapels. He had failing health and he decided to move to Manitou Springs area, because it was known for its healing waters and clean air.
Father Francolon incorporated all of the features he liked into one castle. There is English Tudor, Byzantine, Moorish, Romanesque… it really was a cool house…but did sort of seem like a mish-mash of random elements.
The tour started with a fire history museum in the basement… I realized after, I didn’t take many photos because nothing was very photo worthy, really…
This was the priest’s bedroom, the lady at the front desk said this was the most peaceful room or that people feel unsettling spirits here.
There was the Queen’s Tea Parlor in the castle that serves high tea twice daily. But I didn’t know their max capacity would be like 5 people… and they were “all booked” even though there was only 3 tables… so we didn’t have high tea. I have a feeling that was probably for the best. ha Our theory was that you had to have reservations because they likely ordered the food in instead of making it on site and had to know how much to order.
As we left, the snow we were promised started falling. The fluffiest snow I have ever experienced.
We headed on into town to find an alternate for lunch. The town was a cute artist-type town. Like a Nashville, Indiana. Tons of good independent shops and restaurants.
We decided on Sherpa Garden for Nepalese/Tibetan food. It looked really good online.. and it was a great choice!Mango LassiDahl/Lentil soup starterNorah’s Sherpa roll spring rollsBeef Momo dumplings with a tamarind sauceWe shared the Combination plate with Saag, Lamb Curry, and Chicken Tikka MasalaThey had a momo soup, which I made an assumption was the momo is a spicy broth like I always get in New york at my favorite restaurant. Even asked- is this like “momo johl?” and she said – yes, exactly that. So I was a bit disappointed with a chicken broth soup showed up. haha BUT, it was one of the BEST chicken broths I have ever had… it had definitely been stewed down all day to make this. The combo platter came was a rice pudding that was dreamy. Now I have to figure out how to make this at home. To go with the rice pudding, I ordered a Kabuli naan- a naan bread sweetened with raisins and cashews. Also dreamy. 10/10 would recommend. Back into the snowstorm… lol
We were supposed to drive out to the Royal Gorge and Florissant Fossil Beds, but the fossils were starting to get covered in the sticking snow… and I couldn’t imagine driving 2 hours into the mountains to walk across the highest and largest gorge in the US in 29 degree weather and snow was a great idea.
We had also booked the Cave of the Winds 6:30pm night UV special tour… but we had decided over lunch we likely didn’t need to hang around until 8pm then drive an hour on the interstate after dark, so we would just finish up the few in-town items we had earmarked and head back to the city.
First stop was the first of the natural springs- Twin Spring- which was drilled in the 1920s. I saw a local resident walking down with his water bottle to fill up for the day. We sampled it. It was naturally fizzy, so that is super cool to me…but we all agreed it didn’t have a good clean taste to it… it had a metallic funk to it.
We finally found a spot to park behind the arcade we wanted to visit anyway, so that was handy 🙂 We walked up the hill to another spring, Wheeler Spring that was drilled in 1936 as a tribute to Jerome Wheeler who bottled and marketed Manitou Springs naturally fizzy water and made it famous. Norah said this one tasted like you licked a chain link fence. lol
The Penny Arcade was our intended destination. I had read that they had tons of vintage and even antique arcade games to play, most of which were still 5 cents, 10 cents or a quarter.
I think this old wooden basketball game was my favorite. The guy pitched the basketball up granny style into the goal. I had a lot of fun playing this old baseball game too.Old peep show booths. Of COURSE we had to check those out. I’ve never actually seen one in real life! ha The Knotty Peek was just a cartoon style girl figurine on the beach.. the Peeping Tom headquarters was just pinup girl photos in bikinis. Very racey! lol If you’ve ever read Ready Player One- you know there is an epic Joust battle that allows Wade to find the Copper Key for the First Gate…. Ready Player One is one of my favorite fun easy-reading fiction books, so playing Joust was super fun. Kegan played the rifle game after I recommended it… I said it was really fun! I got 2900 points. Kegan’s score was so high, it reset the dang scoreboard. lol 13,000 or something in the end. It just kept giving him extended play. I think he played 6-7 minutes on a quarter. ha Sampling another spring- Navajo Spring. Same. Metallic. Not great. ha Quick stop at Patsy’s Candy Shop before heading out of town. Last spring – Cheyenne Spring. Same. 🙂
We decided that it was time to get moving…and it was the right call. This was the interstate already.
As I’m driving, I got a call from Colorado Springs… and I’m like, what the heck… it was the Cave of the Winds calling me to tell me they were cancelling our UV tour because of the weather to get everyone home and they were refunding our tour cost. I was like, that’s amazing- we had already ditched you guys and headed back to Denver. ha She laughed and we had $95 back we didn’t anticipate. Win!
I made Kegan take a photo of this crap I was driving in while he was being a passenger princess 🙂 We have an arrangement- I drive in cities, he drives on long trips. He hates traffic and managing 18 different inputs on the road… and my brain hates the monotony of long stretches of nothing… so it works for us. ha But that meant that I was the only name on the rental car for the weekend. The aftermath back at the hotel in Denver.
We checked in the Denver Marriott West for the next 3 nights.. and after 30 minutes or so, headed out for our escape game reservation that also was moved up to 7:30pm from 9:30pm
We booked this one because it was Star Wars themed. War for the Galaxy. We were in a jail cell and had one hour to escape and find the resistance before we were caught.
We escaped we plenty of time to spare. I think they said we were 3 minutes off the all-time record.
After, we couldn’t pick anything that sounded good to anyone….so we sat in the car for a bit trying to find something… and when Kegan mentioned there was a Chuy’s Mexican restaurant nearby, we all said “ooooh, I’d eat Chuy’s!” ha So, we just did chain food. Nothing new and exciting…
Enchiladas with Boom Boom sauceChuychanga with Boom Boom sauceTaco and enchilada combo
We rolled back into the hotel and Norah and I both fell asleep in our clothes. ha Bad mom.
Saturday morning bright and early we headed towards Golden to fit in some suburb town stuff before an afternoon of reservations in Denver.
Breakfast burritos again at Bonfire Burritos. I got the Carne Asada with Green chili sauce and it was the best I had ever had. Kegan and Norah got a chorizo one that was soooo salty, they didn’t finish theirs… but I was happy. ha
Coors Brewery in Golden, ColoradoAn older gymnasium/center that reminded me of the Vallonia gym.
Our first stop was the Mines Museum of Earth Science at the Colorado School of Mines- a public university in Colorado founded in 1874.
Our first view of the mountains since it was so low visibility on Friday.
We drove out a bit to a dinosaur tracksite, but the road was closed. We walked up the hill to the first spot to see some dinosaur bones
With the snow still covering the ground, we decided the almost half- mile walk uphill (in thin air, mind you…. it was hard to just BREATHE haha and when you add elevation..it was a bit of a workout at times just doing a flight of stairs! Someone said it takes about 8 days to acclimate) We all decided that the likelihood of seeing nothing on the ground after walking was going to be disappointing, so we aborted the mission and went back to town.
Next stop- the Denver Museum of Miniatures, Dolls and Toys. Which, I figured would be weird… but it was even weirder than I anticipated. It really was just dollhouses with a couple shelves of other things.
Now, weirdness and all- you cannot discount the skill and craftsmanship that people put into these miniatures. Like the vegetables above- those are purchased whole from a local miniature creator. But they are designed to where you can cut open the bell pepper and find seeds, the cucumber slices, the red cabbage has all of the layers of the real thing. Mind blowing attention to detail. (My fingertip for scale)
This one in particular was a blast from my past. This Fashion Plates from 1977 was at my grandmother’s house when I was growing up. I remember making MANY a doll rubbing with those plates.
We headed on into Denver to a shop that was only open 12-4 Saturday during our trip…so we had to hit this window- called Fifty-Two 80s. A vintage toy shop of 80s and 90s nostalgia.
They had soooo many items from PeeWee’s Playhouse. Including the REAL ACTUAL PLAYHOUSE SET. Only $900 and it could have been mine 🙂 If I wasnt flying, I’m pretty sure this Chairy would have had to come home with me… but Kegan talked me out of it since it was over $100… and flying with it would be a giant pain. Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle table. I recognized about every item on the table from Bryan having every turtle item known to man. Our haul in the end- some Labyrinth stickers for Norah’s best friend. Hello Kitty trading cards, 2 packs of Little Shops of Horrors stickers from the 80s, 2 packs of 1982 Dark Crystal trading cars, a Casa Bonita South Park sticker, a set of Star Wars nesting dolls (to go with our Yo Gabba Gabba nesting dolls) and then the cashier gave us a Kojak trading card at checkout.
Now…. the entire purpose of the trip was upon us.
We had been watching TV and found Casa Bonita Mi Amor- a documentary about Trey Parker and Matt Stone -the creators of South Park and Denver natives- buying the defunct Casa Bonita Mexican restaurant and restoring it to the price tag of something like 30 million dollars to try to salvage the history and their childhood magic. Great documentary. Great cause. They say throughout how this was NOT a sound business decision. That the reason they were able to buy this and do this…. was because it was a stupid money decision.
But how refreshing is that… that in this world of business savvy and investment capital and everything having to be for the greatest possible profit and the greatest return for investors that these two filthy rich big kids can just do something from the heart, the right way… and preserve something that didn’t make “business sense” to preserve. Long live Casa Bonita.
For that alone, we had to make the pilgrimage. I booked 3 months prior and there was only late lunch slots available for me to reserve for the entire weekend. But I didn’t mind- I planned my day around a 2pm lunch reservation. ha
Of course, we knew about the lore of Casa Bonita from South Park- which is a staple cartoon of my upbringing. If you haven’t seen it- its one of the best episodes. Kyle gets to have his birthday party with 3 friends at Casa Bonita, Eric Cartman’s favorite place in the whole world- except Kyle isn’t inviting Cartman- because Cartman is a jerk, he instead invites Butters. Cartman schemes to get the spot for the trip by manipulating Kyle and hiding Butters in a bomb shelter for a week so he can go. The scheme unravels as they arrive to the famous fountain in front of Casa Bonita and Cartman does a speed-run to try to fit in all of the fun of Casa Bonita before the police take him into custody. Its comedy genius.
Watch the South Park episode, watch the documentary, visit the place. It’s absolutely worth it for one visit.
The famous fountain and giant bell tower which we could see from a mile away on our way in, like a big Mexican food beacon. haThe menu is 1 set price since you are basically paying for the whole experience. $39.99- unlimited chips and salsa, unlimited fountain drinks, one entree and then Sopapillas for dessert. We added on a side of guacamole and 2 El Diablo cocktails with a smokey mezcal, lime, cassis and ginger beer. They were fantastic and made dealing with this ADHD fever dream of a restaurant a better experience. ha The arcade gamesThe Shooting RangeSkee-Ball!Sitting at the Puppet ShowBlack Bart’s cave RattlesnakesFlamenco guitar live on the roof. Cartman himself getting an honorary seat forever at Casa Bonita. Loved seeing this. ha Live music playing throughout the experienceIn the remodel, they set aside a Museum section with original Casa bonita items and history. Original Puppets from the show. The original gorilla that would randomly roam around and surprise children. He’s still around, Norah and Kegan found him later in the Magic show. The splash zone for the Cliff Divers, for the kids to get an up front viewThe sheriff, one of the characters roaming the venue interacting with guests. Black Bart, Ani and the Princess Pirate. The Magic showThe gorilla in Hooters shorts! haThe Assayer remodeled and reprogrammed to give Casa Bonita coins in a Farrah Faucet t-shirt. Norah’s ticket haul from the arcade. We stayed so long, a new band came on shift. ha Seeing mermaids in the aquariumFinding the secret button to get a pearl. (a plastic egg with a squishy octopus inside.)
I had set a 5:30pm alarm just in case we lost track of time since we had an escape room reservation… and we needed every minute of it… probably could have even spent another 20-30 minutes if we had it to spend. It was an overall great afternoon. It was like the Disneyland of Mexican restaurants. For the price, definitely worth it as a one-time experience. Viva Casa Bonita!
We headed out to Louisville, Colorado (pronounced Loo-is-ville I’m told) to what Reddit told me was the best escape rooms in the Denver area- Rabbit Hole Recreation Services.
We did Frost Base Z – an antarctic base that we had to go try to save a stuck contaminated team, decontaminate ourselves and escape in our pod back to the surface. The theming was pretty good. There was fog and a escape pod that was just a stationary room, but the sounds and light effects made it feel like it was really moving up and down underground or to the surface. We escaped with 14 minutes left. Plenty of time 🙂
For Easter. I had them hide a rabbit stuffy and rabbit key necklace for Norah in the room for her to find. (it was a service they offered at booking- I wasn’t a crazy mom that asked this to random things haha)
We were due to go to dinner at a Sushi place in Louisville before heading back to the hotel, but none of us were hungry at the time, so we got carryout so we could take it back to the hotel and eat it within a couple hours.
Easter Sunday Funday started a bit later with our first plans being at 10:20am at Meow Wolf Denver.
I forgot to take a photo of the outside, but its called Convergence Station- a multi-dimensional train station between Earth and other dimensions, with some sort of weird parallel arc story about missing people and stolen memories.. as all Meow Wolf art installations are a visual fever dream… but also have hidden easter eggs to find, hidden doors, codes, quests, etc.
Fun fact, that vending machine of laundry detergent is a secret door to a hidden room.Norah completed the hidden pizza quest and got the passcode into the hidden pizza room. Cracking the code in the aquarium room to get a secret psychedelic video
We spent hours wandering around, seeing every corner of the building… but there really isn’t much to say without experiencing it. I don’t think I’m quite artsy enough to truly “get” Meow Wolf… but it is like nothing else in the world every one we visit.
We decided to get German food for a late lunch at Rhein Haus downtown right near Mile High Stadium.
Giant Pretzel with beer cheese and honey mustard. Kegan’s sausage platter with cheesy spaetzel and sauerkrautNorah’s Rhein Brat with tater totsMy Denver brat with Polish Kilbasa, cheesy peppers and onions with diced jalapeno. It was really good!
Our afternoon was uneventful… we were debating going to the Selfie Museum… or the Museum of Illusions…but eventually we all agreed to just go back to the hotel for a 3 hour nap before escape room fun in the evening. Norah and I did full on pajamas in bed and were zonked out. Kegan had to wake us up to go out. ha We would have been down for the night, I think.
Conundrum games was our destination tonight- for the Hollywood Mystery room- a Dick Tracy style 1940’s missing starlet we had to help the detective find the suspect and where he had taken the star- Holly Woods.
Funny story- We got a card that was coded in a cypher called “pigsty”. The room malfunctioned, and a drawer was supposed to open that gave us a decoder ring to decode the message… but have no fear… Norah just happened to know how to decode pigsty IN HER BRAIN… so the game master didn’t even notice that the drawer didn’t open for us. So, even with a malfunctioning game, we managed to get the record for the room. Hence Norah’s “It was all me” sign. It really was. ha
We weren’t really wanting a full dinner after German lunch- so we decided to just get ice cream.. and found this local chain of frozen custard called Goodtimes. It was good enough for a late night teat.
Monday morning was our last day. We packed up and checked out of our hotel and headed into the downtown area, we had a few options for breakfast to select between, but everyone agreed just coffee and pastries sounded best so we drove to Aurora to Paris Baguette.
A Fruity Pebbles Mochi doughnut. Norah said it was “fire”a very flakey cronut
After breakfast we fought our way directly downtown on a Monday morning and searched for parking for a bit to go into the Denver mint. When we arrived we were still over 45 minutes away from a tour start, so we decided to just hit the gift shop and look for any sets or coins for the collection.
We settled on this Native American Dollar set from 2009-2018 since we always try to find these but they are hard to come by in circulation these days. Norah was looking for a 2019 Denver mint penny… so if anyone has one in a change jar, she’s still on the lookout 🙂 The Denver Public Library building looks like a child’s castle playset that someone built in real life. Parking is such a beast I noticed that they had pull up curbside book drops for people. Since we had to pay for 5 hours of parking. we decided to just leave the car there and walk a bit towards the Colorado History Center, passing the Denver Art Museum. The actual Colorado State Constitution from 1876. I learned that Colorado is nicknamed the Centennial State since it was 100 years after the founding of the country.
The History Colorado Center was a very well done museum. Lots of state history and memorabilia, lots about mining culture and settlement…but didn’t shy away from some of the darker parts of Colorado history like the Salt Creek Massacre, the Chinatown riot in downtown Denver, KKK prevalence in the state, Japanese internment camps, segregated ski towns…. I think those things are important to ensure they tell the stories of EVERYONE in the state… and I think this did a great job all around.
Produce boxes highlighting the agriculture industry in ColoradoA recreation of one of the larger family homes in the Amache Japanese internment campBusiness sign from one of the original burlesque clubs that folks like Clint Eastwood and Elvis used to frequent when in town. I forgot to photograph all of the mine exhibits, but lots of focus on the silver and gold industries and other mining that has been at the heart of Colorado industryThere was an exhibit on skiing and the mountain retreat culture and ski industry of Colorado. Norah gave ski jumping a shot in their simulator. excuse me? a CAMEL bone? lol Ha! Even History Colorado got in on the fun of Casa Bonita complete with the 4 minute Cartman clip speed-running Casa Bonita. ha An electric car from 1905 designed and built in Colorado. The signs said this car arrived at the museum on its own power in 1990. Our favorite exhibit- the 90s!They almost didn’t get me to leave this complete blockbuster setup in the corner. haha Talk about nostalgia. I could picture myself stocking shelves, stuffing VHS and DVD clamshells with title inserts. Original cardboard cutout from the premiere of South Park in 1997. Norah enjoyed the basement gaming setup from the 90s and played a little MarioKart on the N64Norah had to have this 90s activity book from the gift shop. I made her agree to do it on the plane instead of electronics if I bought it. She shook on it 🙂
To kill an hour or so until we headed to the airport, we decided we could eat so we went to a restaurant I had bookmarked called MAKfam- a modern Chinese.
We sampled all 3 bao they had- a marinated mushroom, a pork and a spicy chicken.Chinatown dumplings with chicken and chivesa Steak and Egg Jian Bing sandwich with beansprouts and hoisin sauceNorah requested her own scallion pancake order… and she housed the whole thing- soo I guess the kid knew what she wanted.
To round out our trip, we took a drive through the Rocky Mountain Arsenal Preserve to check out some wildlife. Its an 8 mile loop through a nature preserve… we saw prairie dogs, deer, buffalo, ducks, geese, tons of birds- even a hawk.
After that it was the craziness of rental car return, shuttle, security, gate changes, etc… but a fairly empty direct flight back to New Orleans on Southwest. Norah decided to wear her retro Casa Bonita shirt home today that she picked up in the gift shop…so I’d say the goal of creating childhood memories at Casa Bonita was a success!
Next trip is New York City->London->Ireland for 8 days at the end of May. See you then!
Our final destinations of the trip were brand new for all of us. We took a high speed train from Florence Station into Venice on Thursday morning
Coming directly out of the Santa Lucia train station in Venice (the further point cars and trains can enter to the island of Venice) you can see the Grand Canal and very “Venice” style architecture. I was hooked already. We bought 48 hour unlimited tickets on the “Vaporetto” or water buses. The Venetian equivalent of the subway/train system. The water buses hold 50 or so people and go station to station along the water on a set schedule. There are also private water taxis which were much more posh… but also much more pricey. Our 48 hour pass for the water buses for $40/person- a one-time water taxi is $100-200 depending on where you want to go.
We were dropped off at a station just 1-2 minutes’ walk from our hotel. This hotel was sooo nice compared to the other two. Nice marble bathroom, a gorgeous canal view out the window, but the mattress was actually the worst of the trip I would find. lol
Our first few steps out of the hotel had us crossing a bridge right behind St Mark’s square and the Doge’s Palace with a great view of the famous Bridge of Sighs, named because its the bridge prisoners crossed after they were sentenced to death in the court to go back to the prison, that they would sigh looking out at Venice for the last time. Famously, Casanova spoke of crossing this bridge before his escape from the prison.We took our first look at St Mark’s Square, the Campanile and the Doge’s Palace.Right around the corner we saw a Gondola spot to hop in for your rides. We all collectively decided we didn’t need a gondola ride… we just watched a few paddling through and that was good enough. 🙂We hit up a shop for lunch and gelato and then proceeded to keep exploring the city. I got a walnut and fig flavor that was excellent.I had saved this house/museum – the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo in case we were in the area… and Venice was MUCH smaller than I expected from the map… so we ended up over here quickly… so we went inside and climbed ALL of those spiral stairs to a terrace up top. It really wasnt anything famous in the past- it was a rich family’s house for a long time…. it was a filming location for Orson Welles’ Othello…but really it was just a unique architecture from around 1500. Randomly in the art gallery of modern streaky bright colored weird art was this Renaissance TintorettoThis is labeled the “Mozart house” on Google Maps… but when you read further- “Mozart stayed at this house once during a visit to Venice during Carnival when he was 5 years old” hahaha but there you have it- a house where baby Mozart once stayed. 🙂Next along the walk we came across a perfumery I wanted to stop into because their bottles were beautiful online… I ended up with a small bottle that I could fit in my toiletry bag of the Vinegia 21…but disappointingly, the small bottle wasn’t pretty.We decided to spend a bit touring around the inside of the Teatro La Fenice, one of the most famous opera houses along with La Scala in Milan.yep. Looks the same lolWe crossed the canal over to the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, a church from the 1600s. Built on a platform of over a million wooden piles!A floating water bus stationKegan decided he needed a coffee before we went back to our room, and Norah decided she wanted one too- and she drank it! A real Italian Macchiato… and she said she liked it… in Europe, counter and take-away has a different price than tables, since there really isn’t a tipping culture. So, if you want to be served at a table, the food costs more. I REALLY like that set up.For dinner, we had reserved at a very fancy seafood spot…and since Carnival season (equivalent to Mardi Gras in the states) just ended 2 days prior, it was dead empty. Overall, the food was fantastic…but the prices and the portions left a little to be desired. I wouldn’t recommend it because it wasn’t enough food for what we paid for it…and their menu was MUCH smaller than what was available on their website.. so we struggled to find stuff that we even wanted… they did have oysters but they were 6 euro a piece lol and as a now gulf-coast girl getting gulf-coast oysters at 50 cents a piece at happy hour, I just couldn’t do it. haa squid ink tortellini with cuttlefish, sour cream and mintCardoncello mushroom with garlic panacotta and sage sauce Grilled octopus with black cabbage (kale) and artichokesMonkfish with romaine lettuce. (good luck finding the 1 oz of monkfish lol )Norah’s pork shank with mushrooms with sweet and sour onionKegan’s dessert was some sort of apple cider panna cotta or something… I can’t rememberNorah and I had tiramasu
It was amazing when we left at 10pm from the restaurant, Venice was all to us. No one around, empty alleys and streets, calm water… it was really cool.
When we got up Friday, it was back to normal with the typical bustle of a city.
The famous Rialto Bridge. The oldest of the 4 bridges that spans the Grand Canal. Absolute tourist trap of selfie sticks and Instagram fakeness. The bridge itself is gorgeous.. and iconic… so I get it. but 30 seconds on it was enough for me. 🙂We made a stroll through the Liberia Acqua AltaKegan was very amused by the painting of “Fire Exit” on the wall that leads to the water. lolSaw this picturesque house as we left and just really loved how it stood at the fork of two canals like the Flatiron building in New York. On the flight home, I watched the new Mission Impossible- and it was set in Venice and they had a scene on a bridge in front of this house! and on bridges we 100% had just been on. It was fun.
Next we stopped by the Museo di Palazzo Grimani, which is a museum…but was once the home of Antonio Grimani, who became the Doge of Venice in 1521.
Venice is unique in that it was historically always an oligarchy. It was founded and grew to be a city of wealthy merchants. These wealthy families shared power and elected a “doge” to be the representative leader for life. Therefore, since they never would want anyone to have power too long, usually the Doge was much older and would only serve a few years….and it was usually from very prominent families. The Doge had to furnish the palace for himself during his reign…as well as entertain guests and foreign visitors… so it wasn’t cheap to be a Doge… they had to be rich. Venice had the Doge system for over a thousand years… crazy… from 698 to 1797 when the last Doge abdicated to Napoleon.
What makes this house special, is that it was a home of a very wealthy Doge and stayed in that family through the late 1800s. It was restored as a museum in recent times… and there are temporary exhibits and some long term art and sculpture housed here- but really, the architecture is the real attraction- to see the high class life of a 1500s Doge.
The Tribuna, which held over 130 ancient statues in its prime. We thought this looked like Norah, even without arms and …ahem… as a boy.There were a few strange rooms staged artfully to house some curiosities. Like in this case, straw and fake mushrooms to show off the skulls and other nature type oddities?.. I didn’t really get it… but some of the stuff was cool.
After that we made our way back down to the Museo Correr in St Mark’s Square. It was 4 museums, in theory, but you had to buy all 4 together and they were sequential along the path… so to me- that’s one dang museum with different sections 🙂
A large solid walnut library that was relocated to the museum. Housing a large volume of historical documentsThey had a very large coin collection- with some Venetian coins with images of the Doge back to the 800s.A few rooms with historical military weapons, with armor and swords and knifes and clubs.Plenty of ancient roman and greek statues on display… even I was getting “statued out” at this point… and I LOVE this stuff. haVenetian Murano Glass chandeliers in the museum from the 1700s
There was sooo much more I didn’t photograph. Tons of exhibits on the history of Venice and building, shipyards, the arsenal and navy, navigating, ports… renaissance art, ceramics… definitely worth a few hours here.
After the museum, I had to promise Norah some fried seafood- her favorite thing – to get her to make it through the boring museum, so we trekked across the city via water bus for 20-30 minutes to the Frito Inn for some cones of fried seafood.
She was very pleased. So were Kegan and I. We got the mixed fish that had little anchovies and big sardines as well as shrimp and squid. It was greasy, but it hit the spot.
After a stroll back by foot, we rested for a bit in our hotel and I took a nap, prior to our guided night tours- an after-hours small group tour of the Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Cathedral after closing. SO WORTH IT.
Walking across the Bridge of Sighs to the prison
We just about bailed on the tour because the tour guide was all over the place, repeating herself, taking forever on silly stuff, rushing everyone through the areas we wanted to look… and then wanted to take a 20 minute break before we even went into St. Mark’s. (2 groups bailed, it wasn’t just us haha) But we decided we didn’t have anything else to do, let’s stick it out… what if St. Mark’s is amazing inside?? Spoiler alert… it was.
First, when we entered, the church was empty expect for a couple security guards and the lights were all shut off except for a few “emergency lights” and I was like, well of course, they are getting ready to go home… we’re not even going to be able to really see the ceilings… what a crock… We were guided to the chairs in the center of the church and they shut all of the lights to darkness…then slowly in silence started turning them all on, set by set, until the entire cathedral was illuminated bright in all its gilded glory.
I have to say, annoying tour guide or not… that felt like a VERY exclusive experience… and that alone to see the church lit up JUST for you was worth the tour.
The floor mosaics were incredible. Almost all various types and styles of marble make these intricate geometric patterns and animal shapes. And to think, Venice doesn’t have any marble- it all had to be shipped in or brought over the mountains, making the sheer amount of marble in St. Mark’s unbelievable. The entire church is covered in gold marble mosaics. These aren’t painted. They are glass and real gold. They would make 2 layers of clear glass with gold leaf in the middle and then use those glass pieces to make these huge and gorgeous mosaics. These all seem to have already been completed before the1200s. The Dome of the Creation from the 1400s. Tells the story in days of Genesis.This platform is where the Doge would sit, or where a new Doge would be presented to the people of Venice. The medieval alter screen, from the late 1300s with the 12 apostles and a gold and silver crucifixThe high alter of St Marks, or the Pala d’Oro – 10 feet wide and 7 feet tall, made of gold and silver and 1,927 gems., including 526 pearls, 330 garnets, 320 emeralds, 255 sapphires, 183 amethysts, 175 agates, 75 rubies, 34 topazes, 16 carnelians, and 13 jaspers, originally created in the 900s, but finished in its current form during the 1300s Renaissance.
All in all, the best and most amazing church I’ve ever been in. Glad we went.
It was almost 10pm when they kicked us out of the church for the next group, and we knew we had to head to Milan fairly early so we didn’t want a 2 hour dinner- so we grabbed some sandwiches at a corner shop/bar and ate them in our room.
Our last view of St. Mark’s Campanile before we left the city.
Saturday morning, bright and early we departed on a train for Milan to fit in one last city in a quick whirlwind visit. We had never been to Milan and there wasn’t enough on my bucket list to justify a whole trip there in the next few years, so hitting the few things we wanted to see in this trip just made sense. So off we went on a water taxi back to the main train station
Arriving in Milan, I didn’t really have a good plan- maybe walk, maybe ride the subway? wander around? Maybe grab lunch- the morning was a mess until our pre-booked appointment to see DaVinci’s Last Supper painting and a walking tour of the city.
We arrived in Milan, stored our bags at a local luggage storage for $20 for the day and headed out (we ended up taking our bags with us so that we could exit the return train one stop earlier than we boarded and save ourselves the taxi fare back off the island of Venice since we would be staying at the Marco Polo Airport for our return flight that night.)
We did end up using the subway and buying tickets- Norah thought it was awesome because we each had to pay for our own fair with our own phones (a weird rule) and so she was getting to use her Apple Pay that I just recently turned on for her. Real grown-up stuff 🙂
A Saints decorated car on the streets of Milan. Caught Norah’s attention.
We arrived at the Duomo station and took a look around the square and walked through the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II – a double iron and glass dome shopping arcade from the 1800s.
Norah at the Cathedral of MilanA statue of Leonardo DaVinci in a square near the arcade. This city had streetcars a lot like New Orleans. The most interesting tiny car we came across on the trip
We chose to pass a couple hours at the Leonardo DaVinci Museum of Science and Technology. We didn’t allow NEARLY enough time to see everything there and grab lunch before our tour… so we did the quick pass through, but I’d highly recommend it.
They had a large collection of notebooks of DaVinci on display. A quick stop for pizza and to rest our (my) feet before 3 more hours of walking.
We arrived at our tour spot, at the Santa Maria del Grazie church which is the site of the Last Supper painting.
You have to buy timed tickets in advance (they were all sold out for the day when we went in) you have to leave all food and drink and bags in a locker… and only 35 people are allowed in at a time for 15 minutes. The doors are also coordinated to not open more than one set at any time so that the humidity and temperature stay at as near constant as possible.
Its important to note that really we aren’t seeing DaVinci’s Last Supper. He painted it in the 1490s and decided to try a new technique of painting on top of dry stucco instead of wet stucco like all frescos were previously done… and it did not go well. It is said that within 20 years of completion the colors had faded and pieces were flaking off. Over the years, with it being in such absolutely terrible shape, they knocked a hole in the wall to create a door, it was used an an armory during the French invasion in the 1700s and soldiers scratched out the apostles eyes.. it was used as a prison in the 1800s… and some guy even messed more of it up trying to remove it to a better/safer location before realizing it wasn’t a real fresco. During World War II the church was bombed heavily and half demolished, so it is a wonder the wall even exists at all…
So, as expected, there have been multiple restoration projects on this painting… and now what we see is as close as can be replicated of DaVinci’s art… but with a lot of documented detail now missing. The feet of Jesus crossed under the table are gone forever. The food and decor on the tables is no longer painted. Even with that, it is a very well-known and maybe the most famous painting around the world (maybe Mona Lisa beats it? also DaVinci…) so it was an awesome opportunity to get to see it in person before it is potentially gone forever. It wasn’t even open to the public from the 1970s to around 2010… so who knows when the next long window of time for restoration will be.
A painting on the other side of the room that no one ever mentions… called Crucifixion
After our time in the Refectory with the paintings, we took a quick pass through the inside of the church.
A colorful modern statue in Milan paying homage to the garment industry that has driven their economy and their place as a fashion capital of the world. I will say, local people dressed much more fashionably and nicer than anywhere else I have been in Europe. Presentation and style definitely matter a lot in Milan. For the record. I was in jeans, an LL Bean sweatshirt and Target slip on shoes. I’m sure I was judged accordingly. 🙂 Our next tour stop was the Sforza Castle – a medieval fortress that served as the residence of the Duke of Milan… but now is just a public space and houses many city museums. I believe the tour guide said this building used to be the Central Bank of Milan, but now is a Starbucks Reserve Roastery.- the biggest in Europe. Milan celebrates their Carnival a week later than the other cities, so Milan was busy and there were tons of celebrations in the public squares. There were also protests against the US as well. Right after this group of kids and confetti was a bunch of people lined up and a guy speaking on a karaoke machine in Italian and all I could pick out were the words “Zelensky” and “Donald Trump”and we ended our walking tour right back at the arcade. We headed back to the train station to catch our train home which was on time… and grabbed quick “fast food”: dinner from a shop in the station.Norah had a hotdog and french fry sandwich lol She was happy enough with her decision.
Our train back was supposed to be 1.5 hours… ended up being 3 hours due to a rail strike and diverting down to Bologna and then back to Venice… which gave us a bit of a scare we got on the wrong train for a bit lol Nothing was mentioned, no info was displayed, it just kept saying “15 minutes delayed” and we were over an hour into the wrong direction. All in all, it was fine. We got off at that “earlier” train station on the mainland that I mentioned earlier… and we got a taxi straight to our Marriott Courtyard American hotel bed for all 4 hours we had before we had to get up for our final flights home.
In bed around 11:30pm, up at 4:10, flight at 6:10am to Paris, then 2 hours in Paris, a 10.5 hour flight to Houston… followed by Malaysian crawfish with Tim and Jen again and then a 6 hour drive back home.
1/10 stars, would not recommend 24 hours of travel on very little sleep to end with a 6 hour after dark drive home! haha
Our 10.5 hour flight didn’t have wifi- we got a text that is would be out of service the night before which added to the dissatisfaction with this flight along with the stress that we couldn’t print our boarding passes ahead of time and had to go to the counter in the luggage drop off line to assign our seats, even though I had pre-selected seats and working with customer service for days prior had ended with “nothing we can do”. But overall, all of our trip was very non-dramatic… everything worked out the way it should and we had a great week. Just be weary of AirFrance promising wifi on their long haul flights- research informed me this is common and very often the “wifi isn’t available” which I’m thinking they just don’t want to pay for the usage for that many people on all of their flights and selectively don’t allow it. The silver lining- I do now know I CAN go 11 hours without the internet if I have to. 🙂
We’re going to do a quick trip to Colorado in April and then we have a week in UK/Ireland in late May. More blogs coming soon.
For Tuesday morning, we woke up, packed up and headed to the Rome Train Station where we were booked on a high speed train to Florence, arriving around noon. The train was on time and just a few minutes from our hotel in Florence, so we dropped our bags and headed out to see the city.
The hotel had a terrible odor of sewer and after looking through reviews online there were a few other people complaining of the same over the months… so it wasn’t a new problem. Kegan diagnosed the problem the evening when we returned, that the toilet was syphoning the water from the trap of the bidet right next to it every time you flushed because it was installed wrong, causing sewer gas to permeate the entire hotel room and floor. So, every time we flushed, we refilled the bidet and covered it up with the thick bathmat and didn’t have any more problems…. but like, how hard would it have been for the hotel to figure that out after multiple bad reviews over a year timespan?? They just kept posting annoying responses to everyone that it was sometimes the city sewer and they couldn’t stop it and their staff worked hard to keep the hallways and rooms fresh… so was that lip service?…or are they really not smart enough to figure out the source? I thought about telling them…but then decided a language barrier and the chance for them to gaslight me and tell me it wasn’t their problem (when I knew I’d never stay there again anyway) wasn’t worth the potential frustration. ha Long live the sewer smell at the Market Urban Hotel Florence! ha
Anyway- out and about the town!
I wish I could say this wasn’t common graffiti in a LOT of places we visited this week. We saw a VERY large Ukranian support protest in Rome after dark that was pretty unsettling. The street was packed full, burning fires, signs and yelling chants…seemed like something out of history books… all against the US since it was the day after the Oval Office fiasco with Zelensky. There was fresh graffiti daily with similar sentiment to this every morning. Our European allies are not happy with us right now…and I can’t say I feel very differently than they do. Some of the news coming out daily doesn’t represent what I feel like America should stand for… just wanted to document it here to look back on from our future vantage point, whatever that may be….
Our first attraction in Florence was timed entry tickets into the Galleria dell’ Accademia where the Statue of David is displayed.
In the hall leading down to the David is one of Michaelangelo’s unfinished Pieta sculptures
After the David, we caught the last few minutes of a small obscure museum nearby that was a Museum of Pietre Dure – a craft of cut stones placed together and sanded smooth to create pictures and inlays.
Norah. was. hooked. She loved it. I’ve never seen a kid so into something like that. She looked at every picture, she looked analytically at all the old time tools to do it, sat and watched the 15 minute video showing a craftsman working on a piece. She walked away decidedly that she absolutely wanted to do that. We talked to her about starting small….not being THAT good at first, etc… haha So….we’ll see. Kegan and I are now on a path to figure out how you help a kid get started making inlay stone art….I’m 100% open to any ideas 🙂
Next up, we were due for some food and we walked past a wine window. Ironically, these windows were started in plague times as a way to still serve wine and products while slowing the spread of diseases.
So its no surprise that during Covid, a lot of restaurants unblocked their wine windows and they are making a comeback around the city.
We chose to have a full meal down in their actual restaurant instead of just wine and snacks outside.
So, so good. And 2 glasses of Chianti at lunch never hurts 🙂
After a full filling and long lunch, we headed to the Leonardo DaVinci museum dedicated to all of his inventions and experiments. Norah said it was her favorite museum of the trip because she could interact with everything.
This life size model of his 360 canon defense tank that he designed when he was trying to get the Grand Duke of Florence to hire him as his military advisorThe world’s first at home gym? Leonardo had drawings for a machine to work out muscles at home.
After the DaVinci museum, our walking path took us past the Duomo for the first time. Words cannot describe the grandeur of this structure. The sheer size, the volume of marble, the intricacies of the statues, the alcoves…it is just unbelievable standing there in person.
We walked past the famous Baptistry of San Giovanni doors- which Michaelangelo likened to “the Gates of Paradise”, designed by Lorenzo Ghiberti in 1452. (these are replicas placed now…but we DID see the originals the next day- you’ll see below) The 3D perspective effects of these gilded panels is mind blowing.
After admiring the outside of the Duomo and the Bapistry for a while, we continued on to the Piazza Signoria and got our first glimpse of the Palazzo Vecchio we would be touring later. A copy of the David statue still stands in front because the David was originally commissioned for the Medici family and stood in front of this palace.
We walked on to the Ponte Vecchio bridge to look out over the river Arno and show Norah the shops that lined the bridge.
We backtracked towards the Palazzo Vecchio and explored the sculptures in the Loggia dei Lanzi, including the famous Abduction of the Sabine Women by Giambologna for Cosimo the 1st de Medici
I thought I had pre-purchased a guided tour of the Palazzo Vecchio so I didn’t do a lot of research ahead of time, only to arrive, be called 15 minutes before my time to be told we were late and she was waiting for us (we weren’t late- double checked) and be handed tickets quickly, given a QR that she acted like I was too dumb to know how to work and then ran off. ha We just joked that she must have had to go to the bathroom. lol So… we began our SELF-guided tour of the Palazzo Vecchio- or “Old Palace” of Florence.
The people of Florence in 1299 decided to build a palace that would be safe in times of turbulence and worthy of the city’s importance.
Duke Cosimo 1 de Medici moved his official seat to this Palazzo Vecchio in 1540.
The Hall of the 500 from the top floor balcony overlook. In theory, there were large paintings here by Michaelangelo and DaVinci at one point in time before the Medicis that were replaced by these giant scenes of Florence battle triumph. Lost to time… Michaelangelo would have been commissioned to paint these works, but the Pope sent his guard to Florence to capture Michaelangelo and bring him back to Rome to paint the Sistine chapel, threatening Michaelangelo that he would start a war with Florence if he refused to return. (Kinda makes sense now why he painted a big giant bare bum right where the Pope would look up to say prayers….and why he painted over 100 naked men on his giant alter piece that had to later be covered with some fabric in key areas to make it more palatable haha)The Hall of Maps from the 1500s was my favorite here too. Designed by Giogio Vasari as a room of cabinets to hold valuables and curiosities…but finished with maps of the world drawn/painted by Egnazio Danti, who was later asked to paint the maps in the Gallery of Maps in Rome that we saw earlier! 57 cabinet doors, with the maps painted directly on the cabinet doors. The regions on the map corresponded to the origin of the items found inside the cabinets. Vasari originally intended for the room to have a false ceiling that would conceal 2 large globes that could be lowered and raised into the room. There was a hole overlooking the Vasari staircase to see below to who was coming upstairs… The Piazza Signoria where they held the famous Bonfire of the Vanities and where they hanged and burned Gorolamo Savonorola, the man who orchestrated the whole thing to begin with. The beautiful fountain of Neptune in the plaza deserves its flowers. Designed in the mid-1500s, it celebrated the Medici’s “gift” of clean water to the city… and also to symbolize his marriage to the Grand Duchess of Austria.
Keeping with the clean water gift, right behind the Neptune fountain was a public drinking fountain that had the option of still normal water and water “gassata” – carbonated bubbly water!
Please ignore the absolutely terrible wide angle photo of me, its the only one i have! haI bet we filled up 6 bottles out of this fountain over two days. We all loved it. ha
We ended our night seeking out a good restaurant to splurge a bit and have Florentine steak while we were in Florence. The restaurant we found did not disappoint and we had the entire place to ourselves! Trattoria La Faltorona. If you go to Florence, I’d recommend to put this on your list.
The best carbonara we had ever had, with shaved black truffleNorah’s fried seafood platterTiramisu..again.. (every meal for Norah lol) but this one was LEGIT the best Tiramisu any of us had ever had.
Wednesday we got to sleep in a bit as our first tickets didn’t start until 10am and the major Duomo and sites don’t even open until 10:30am. My kind of city 🙂
We grabbed our skip the line tickets from a guide standing in the Piazza and went first to see the Baptistry at his recommendation while we waited for the Duomo to open.
While waiting in line to enter, a gypsy woman approached us asking for money. Very persistent and glaring at Kegan in the eyes. He grabbed a 2 euro coin from his pocket and dropped it into her cup expecting her to move on… Except she didn’t. She started tapping him on his pocket asking for more! haha but it wasn’t aggressive, it was like cute grandma annoying… so I laughed. That made her laugh and she asked Kegan again, what else he had. He frustratingly was like, all I have it a piece of candy” (a lemon tea flavored hard candy that he likes to carry). She sees the candy, her eyes light up. “I take??” hahaha uhhh, sure, knock yourself out. She pops it in her mouth and walks away to harass other tourists. ha Enjoy your Arnold Palmer candy. ha
The Baptistry of St John was originally exactly that- where Florentine infants were brought to be baptized on Saturdays in the center of the building.
I missed being able to enter the baptistry on our last trip because I didn’t buy tickets in advance… and they were sold out. This trip I got the tickets, only to walk in and find the ENTIRE CEILING was covered in a tarp printed to look like the giant domed and gilded mosaic ceiling! errgghh. Why even have the dang thing open?
We were SUPPOSED to see the amazing gold mosaics covering the entire domed ceiling completed in the 1200s. 10 million mosaic pieces. Expected completion of the restoration isn’t scheduled to end until 2028…so plan accordingly.
Annoyed, but understanding, we headed into the main Duomo and decided to explore the crypts first before they got more crowded.
In the 1960s, archeologists worked to excavate the remains of many earlier churches on the same site including the original Roman temple and earlier christian churches, the most recent being the Santa Reparata Church, Florence’s first cathedral. Many knights, popes and other famous folks are buried here in the crypts including Filippo Brunelleschi- the designer and builder of the famous dome on top of the Duomo that towers over the city of Florence, 50 years before Leonardo DeVinci was even born…
The preserved Roman mosaics were amazing to see
Back upstairs in the main Duomo cathedral, we explored its gigantic basilica- one of the largest churches in the world.
After walking around the church, we headed behind the church to the Museum of the Duomo to see all of the original works of art that have been removed from the elements over the years and are being handled in a more controlled environment to preserve them for the future.
The REAL Gates of Paradise on displayDonatello’s Penitent Magdalene, originally stood in the Baptistry in the 1500s. The original solid silver alter of silver and enamel from the Baptistry from the 1400s. The intricacy of this was just crazy…From the top floor of the Museum, there was a terrace that provided a fantastic up close view of the dome of the Duomo. Another of Michaelangelo’s Pieta sculptures was on display in the museum in its own room. This one was from later in his life.
Finishing up at the museum- which housed 3-4 floors of statues, relics, Pope robes, dome models and just SO much history, it was lunch time.
We decided on a board for two along with a bowl of lampredotto- a dish made from stewing the 4th stomach of the cow.
We spent the rest of our Florence afternoon at the Uffizi Gallery.
The Birth of Venus by BotticelliPortaits of the Duke and Duchess of Urbino – the Sforza family from Milan, painted on wood from the 1400s. Perseus Rescuing Andromeda by Piero di CosimoDaVinci’s AnnunciationAndrea del Verocchio and Leonardo Da Vinci’s The Baptism of Christ from 1475Michaelangelo’s Doni Tondo (The Holy Family) The frame is original to the painting, likely designed by Michaelangelo himself too. Fun fact, this is Michaelangelo’s only free-standing painting known to still exist. This Crespi painting really caught my eye for the amazing use of light. It looked just like a photograph in real life. Portrait of Cosimo the Elder by PontormoPortrait of Cosimo I de’ Medici by Bronzino, the court’s painter.A view of the Ponte Vecchio bridge from within the UffiziThe head of Medusa by Caravaggio on a shield – since Perseus used a shield as a mirror to cut off Medusa’s head. It was given to Grand Duke Ferdinando de Medici as a gift. Famous portrait of Galileo Galilei by Sustermans
Kegan thought this one looked like me…so I made him walk all the way back through the museum to get a photo of it for me. haha
This was a major highlight of the self-portrait gallery. A tiny round painting highlighted on a full blank wall. Its a self-portrait by Lavinia Fontana, an Italian artist- the first woman artist! I can live with having a likeness to the first pioneering woman of her field! 🙂
We didn’t even go out for dinner after the Uffizi, we drank wine and ate biscotti in our hotel room and chilled, packed up and to be ready to head to Venice the next morning.
