McKinney Gypsy Caravan

One part travel blog. One part nerdy history lesson.

Greece -Day 8 and Wrap Up

Day 8 in the town of Ioannina started about the same as the other days recently- a rainy, cold mess. Lucky us, we had tried to wait on walking around the castle grounds hoping for no rain… and it was raining even harder than the night before. So… we did a quick car tour of the castle by driving all around it a few times and looking inside the gates and wall openings. ha

This was a new type of median barrier I had never seen before…
This is what most of our 4 hour drive across Greece to Thermopylea looked like. Plus add in some spots of hail along the way.
The view the entire drive of the beautiful mountains ha. Glad I had been able to get some good landscape photos the last couple of days.
This is Kegan thrilled that he didn’t have to drive this. ha

It was still raining when we reached Thermopylae but getting better. We started our visit at the visitor center.

Thermopylae, the “Hot Gates” in Greek, is known for the 480BC battle where Spartan King Leonidas and a small Greek force held a narrow coastal pass against Xerxes’ massive Persian army for three days. Using the terrain to minimize Persian numbers, they famously fought to the death after being betrayed, becoming a symbol of heroic resistance. This three day delay allowed time for all of the people of Athens to be evacuated from the city to the island of Salamis and then later the same year, the Athenian Greek forces defeated the Persians at the Battle of Salamis.

Herodotus wrote that Leonidas’ fate was foretold by the Oracle of Delphi. She said “Either your great and glorious city must be wasted by Persian men, Or if not that, then the bound of Lacedaemon must mourn a dead king, from Heracles’ line” – Leonidas being a descendent of Heracles. So, prior to the invasion of the Persians, Leonidas knew his choice would be to sacrifice himself in the battle or watch all of Sparta fall. In knowing this, he selected only Spartan soldiers with living sons to carry on their names and inheritance as he knew they would likely die.

Famously, there is the movie ‘300’ with Gerard Butler as Leonidas. It’s historical fiction at best… but its still a great action film based off a comic book.

The visitor center was just a small theater with a 3D screen about the battle logistics of the troops and explained their military uniforms and then a room with some touchscreens with all of the same info. ha

We took the opportunity in the cafe for some coffee and noticed they had a non-CocaCola cola -Vikos. Didn’t try one… maybe next visit.

Outside there were 2 memorials to this legendary battle. The main one of Leonidas – a bronze sculpture commemorating the Spartans with the inscription “Molṑn labé” or “Come and take them” on the base- a quote, according to the Greek historian Plutarch, Leonidas wrote to Xerxes in response to Xerxes saying “Put down your arms” and Leonidas said “come and take them”. Today we see this phrase used a lot is relation to gun rights and second amendment groups or military…

This statue was actually created by a group of Greek Americans from Atlanta, Georgia and dedicated in 1955. Initially they wanted to put in the modern town of Sparta but they said no because he was naked. ha Which I thought was odd… but that’s how it ended up here at the site of the battle.

The second monument is a lot smaller, but I think is important, too in the grand context. We always hear about the 300 Spartans but never hear that over 700 Thespians ALSO stayed and fought to the death. In total there were over 5000 greek soldiers that fought the Persian army here… but 1000 that stayed on Day 3 and perished on the final fight. This monument depicts the god Eros (who was worshipped in ancient Thespiae) headless as a tribute to the anonymous Thespians who died in the battle.

After Thermopylea we had another 2 hours back to Athens to end of trip.

Spotted a Florida license plate at a toll booth. That was a bit odd lol

One unique thing we found while driving around Greece is that there are literal toilets or “WCs” – water closets- along the interstate. similar to our rest stops… but just a toilet with half a door and you can hear the cars going by 15 feet away lol

I mean, it gets the job done… nothing commercial- no snacks or guidebooks or buildings constructed…just an exit ramp and 2 toilet stalls with a sink in the middle.
Another unique Greek thing to mention for the wrap up is that you can’t put toilet paper in toilets in Greece. A quick google search tells me that its because their waste water pipes are only 2 inches instead of our 4 inch pipes, so paper clogs things up… so every hotel had lidded trash cans in the bathrooms… and I could have understood this if there were bidets everywhere… but no bidet seats either… I’m not going to lie. I tried to use less paper that I usually would- but I put it right in the toilets in all of our hotels. lol

We got to Athens around 4:30pm and found the venue for the escape room we booked for the evening. Since we had time, we went ahead to the airport and dropped our rental car and put our bags in the airport hotel room and then got an Uber back to the room- then what took us 30 minutes to drive to the airport, took us 1.5 hours to get back due to traffic after work and for a holiday weekend of people leaving Athens.

This escape room is ranked #8 in the world so we were very excited to play a Top 10 room….but a little apprehensive because it was a our first horror room. It was called Don’t Take a Breath by Verone and was based on the horror film “Don’t Breath” from 2013 and basically some young kids decide to rob an old blind guy because one kid’s dad owns a security company and so he can get info. They break in only to find that the blind guy is an old Army vet and has booby traps and torture devices and is holding a girl hostage in his basement… so the movie quickly moves from stealing to just trying to survive and escape.

The room was actually a whole vibe and had live actors. You enter one area and meet up with the guy doing to heist- he outfitted us with gear and who we’d be meeting.

Then we snuck into the security office and grabbed keys, then we had to go outside to a different street and go into the house with the keys… and then search for a safe full of money. The blind guy from the movie was upstairs in bed and we had to sneak around and put chloroform there… and in various parts he came running around with a gun and we had to hide from him while he tried to figure out who was there and where we were. At one point he grabbed Norah and locked her in a cage and we had to rescue her. Totally freaked her out haha but she handled it like a champ. We found secret hatches, crawled through a fake washer into a downstairs basement, rescued a girl who was immediately shot by the guy.. and eventually escaped with no money… but alive. It was a stressful two hours! ha Very immersive, very realistic. Highly recommend. It wasn’t your typical puzzles and riddles and secret doors. It was more like being in a real-life movie… He told us later than he’s been running this game for 8 years just by himself with 1 of 3 female assistants. So he is the owner, the accomplice, the blind main guy, the security guard… all of it. lol The girl from the basement was also the girl on comms with us the whole time telling us what the do and where to go.

My face is so splotchy here because I hadnt eaten in 10 hours due to the traffic and just spent two hours crawling in holes and running away from a gun wielding madman. I was having some major low blood sugar cold sweats. ha I had shoved a Twix bar in Norah’s face before the room to avoid something similar for her. ha

After the room, it was back in an Uber and back to the airport. We had the world’s fasted taxi that drove entirely too fast for my liking, but we arrived in one piece.

Can’t recommend the hotel enough that is attached to the airport. Comfy beds, great bathroom layout and showers, separate toilet closet, blackout window shades, great noise control… and good onsite food.

Norah got the Chicken Souvlaki with these puffy potato chips. The chips were great. the chicken was odd because it was just chunks vs the normal shaved pieces.
I had a lighter meal since we were going straight to bed – just order a smoked salmon club sandwich. Kegan had a chicken bacon club sandwich with fries, but I guess I forgot the photo.

We situated our luggage and showered and grabbed a few hours of sleep. We were up at 5:15am to walk across into the Athens airport and do security and we were off to London.

We had a 4 hour flight to London Heathrow, then a 4 hour layover in London. We grabbed a chance at a “full English” – which isn’t quite a full Irish breakfast- but is a passable version when not in Ireland.

I decided the eggs benedict looked better to me than a full English.

I took an hour to walk around all of the shops in London Heathrow and admire all of the Chanel, Gucci, Loewe, Burberry and Dior handbags I would love to buy but didn’t. Kegan never tells me I can’t do anything (he knows better) but he did think spending more on a purse than our entire Athens trip was likely a poor decision. 🙂

We had a 10.5 hour flight back to Dallas which we were informed 2 hours prior did not have working wifi… so just watched a bunch of shows and movies and shifted around a lot in my cheap economy seat. ha

Then in Dallas we did the normal passport control and customs but due to the budget lapse and partial shutdown, Homeland Security closed off Global Entry and Mobile Passport Control options and only had 2 passport stations processing arrivals. Luckily, the line moved fast and I think we were through in 40 minutes of so. They didn’t even check our passports or verify anything… just walked up, took a photo and we were on our way. Seemed dodgy. All of this emphasis on border control and 2000 people just walked through Dallas airport into the country within an hour with just a quick photo? whatevs. I’m someone who thinks all border control is silly… so it works for me.

Grabbed Norah some Chick-fil-a and hopped on our hour flight to New Orleans. Slept the entire hour because we were exhausted on hour 26 of travel, waited an hour at the New Orleans airport for our checked bags because there was 1 little rinkydink bag crew and 5 flights arrived at the same time… but our Uber was fast and nice and we were home by midnight local time to get some sleep and be back on track with the time zones. The cats were so glad to find we didn’t abandon them forever…and shoutout to my mom for cat sitting a majority of the week while we were gone to keep them from actually dying of separation anxiety.

Overall thoughts – had a great time. Did very little work while traveling this trip, so it made it easy for me to keep up with the blog and keep that on track. We didn’t have as many evening plans as usual either since it was still off-season in Greece and a lot of things closed at 3:30pm or 5pm at the latest- the only evening events after dark were food or escape rooms…so we had a lot of slow hotel evenings which helped us feel a little more rested and relaxed than our typical “go hard” schedules. I actually came home without feeling like I needed a vacation from my vacation! ha Greek food was amazing. Every place we went was exceptional. Greek people were super nice. I don’t think we encountered one rude person the entire trip. Greek infrastructure… I’ll give it a B or C. ha small streets, small highways, a little run down, graffiti everywhere…but nothing bad.. and never did we feel unsafe anywhere we went or walked. Just doesn’t have that posh Euro vibe of a classic inner city tourist district full of granite and limestone and well lit streets.. I would travel there again… but I didn’t start looking up real estate… so I guess that’s a change from my normal Euro trips. ha

We are trying to book something in Europe for the last week of May or first week of June before Norah starts her camps…so see you all then when I figure out where!

Greece – Days 6 & 7 – Delphi, Meteora and Northern Greece

We had breakfast at the hotel we were at for just one night. I had booked a family room, but they actually gave us two whole hotel rooms with connecting doors, so Norah got her whole own hotel room. Breakfast was good there, too. Better than American continental… but still just some random items-but plenty.

There was a view of the Acropolis from the breakfast room.

We gathered our things and walked down the block to the Enterprise rental car spot and spent 40 minutes to get the keys to the car. While we were waiting we got to watch a guy on a motorcycle wreck on the corner…luckily he was OK.

After getting the keys, we were off on our way. I had to drive out of Athens, of course 🙂

This is our rental. Small 4 door hybrid with what feels like a lawn mower engine, but it gets great fuel mileage! Norah was super pumped about her crank windows in the back seat. haha

The drive north was a couple of hours of towns and mountains and it was a pretty drive with little towns and sites along the way.

Our first destination was the Holy Monastery of Hosios Loukas. A world heritage site from the 11th century on the side of Mt. Helicon.

We went under the church to the burial crypt where there are amazing frescos- the best preserved of the Byzantine era in Greece.

Inside the main church- the first in Greece with the square cross and dome design- there are amazing mosaics – very much like the ones in St. Mark’s in Venice. Wikipedia says these are from the “Macedonian Renaissance” but when I try to wiki that term, it just shows photos of the Hosios Loukas monastery. lol

The monastery site was built where a hermit called St. Lukas lived in the late 900s. His bones are still in the second church on the site on display.

The monastery was very prosperous because it was said that the body of St Lukas leached perfumed oil that could heal and people would travel to the site and sleep under and around the tomb for healing. (Sounds like a scam to me… some monk was running a scam for sure lol)

After the monastery, we were back on the road north to try to reach the ancient site of Delphi before it closed at 3:30pm.

We arrived around 2:30 with last entry to the ruins at 2:50 and last entry to the museum at 3:10… so we had to hustle. No big deal…just hiking up a mountain in twenty minutes. ha

The site of Delphi was considered the center of the ancient world and was where the great Oracle of Delphi, a priestess, offered wisdom and advised on all major decisions for kings and leaders as well as normal everyday people who travelled there.

The first major site on the way up to the other sites was the Agora. This would have been right outside the sanctuary walls and where travelers could have purchased statues or offerings to the gods to leave at the site.

Next up the pathway we came to the Athenian Treasury. Built to commemorate the victory at the Battle of Marathon in 390BC over the Persian invasion. (This is also where the term Marathon comes from for a race. The legend is that a soldier ran the full distance from Marathon to Athens after the battle – uttered the Greek word for “We won” and promptly collapsed and died. So now we run a marathon in his honor.

Looking out from Mt. Parnassus at the surrounding area. If you look closely, you can see the Temple of Athena and the gymnasium below- but those sites are currently closed due to a rock fall.
This is the site where a 30 foot tall Sphinx of Naxos stood. It was a grandiose offering to the Oracle in 560BC from the people of the island of Naxos. A giant winged sphinx with the head of a woman carved from Naxian marble. An inscription on the base says that the people of Naxos were honored with “promanteia” or the privilege of priority at receiving an Oracle if they were to visit Delphi. (the Sphinx itself is below in photos from the museum)
In the Temple of Apollo is where the Oracle would have been. She would have been in a closed off space with- as legend has it – a deep fissure was formed in the base of the temple. This was where Apollo slay the python and cast him into the depths… and the Oracle would inhale the vapors from this fissure and would give advice and foresight. Two theories exist on if the vapors truly were hydrocarbons from the Earth. (This is a volcanic area and certain vapors like ethane would cause extreme visions and hallucinations) – or if access was restricted because they were burning cannabis, oleander or other herbs to induce hallucinations and expanded reality.
On up the hill was the ancient theatre.

From here, Norah and I had to wave Kegan on up the hill to see the rest. We were huffing and puffing and he still had some steam. So he headed on up to the last site to see the Stadium that hosted the famous Pythian games every 4 years. He photographed it for us 🙂

The stadium could seat 6500 spectators. The Pythian games were second only to the Olympic games in importance.
The Sphinx of Naxos I wrote about above.
The silver bull that was discovered – a hammered and forged silver and gold bull as an offering that was given at the site. Only pieces of the metal have been recovered- it would have been a wood core, covered in a malleable material like clay and then hammered silver and gold covering the entire sculpture creating an illusion of a solid metal bull.
One of the most famous and oldest ancient bronze sculptures that survives today. The Charioteer from 470 BC. It is one piece of a much larger sculpture with horses which were all likely melted down throughout history, but this piece survived because it was found under a rockfall in the 1800s.
Selfies after the musuem. We climbed, we saw, we made it just in time. ha

It was back on the road towards our hotel. We decided to stop for snacks a couple hours in at a grocery store in what was likely the last big town before we headed up into the mountains again for the night.

We found one spot still open for dinner. It was very good!
We sat right in front of the wood fire and it was so cozy on a cold mountain night just above freezing by 1 degree.
I had the lamb and rice.
Kegan had the Casserde Beef in a clay pot. We noticed the local shop was selling these clay pots, so it must be a specialty of this area.
Panna cotta with honey for dessert.
Our hotel room for the evening was the Evora Suites. It was a beautifully remodeled or newly built building with a jacuzzi tub and balcony overlooking the mountains.

I typed up the blog while Norah enjoyed the jacuzzi, we cracked open a bottle of “house wine” George the taxi driver bought us as a gift from a side of the road stand. It was good for $5 wine! But I promptly fell asleep and slept until 8:30am! ha We knew we would sleep in because breakfast was only served 9am-11am here and we had a fairly slow day planned.

View from our balcony in the morning when we could actually enjoy the mountains around.
The breakfast spread was very nice! Especially considering we may have been the only guests for the night! ha

Back on the road for more driving – almost ALL driving- to see more of the mountainous northern Greek areas. Lots of landscape photos today.

Lots of tunnels through the mountains. A couple of them were 3 kms long!
We stumbled on this amazing stone bridge over the Portaikos river at Pyli, built in the 1500s during the Ottoman era and until the 1930s its was the only connection between the plains and the Pindus moutain villages.
We spotted these giant mountain rocks in the distance and were like, whoa…what is THAT? Turns out it was Meteora- a famous site we were supposed to visit tomorrow… but since we took a different road towards our hotel, we ended up right through here… and since the Ioannina sites we were SUPPOSED to see today close at 3:30 and we were likely going to arrive to town around 3pm, we decided to detour into Meteora today and see the Ioannina sites tomorrow morning.
The caves in Meteora have been inhabited for 50,000 years. There are caves with proof of Neanderthal to human transitions as well as Ice age to iron age transitions.

Monks were living in the caverns as early as 800AD, but when the invading Turks attacks increased, the monks were looking for more protection. They created homes on top of rocks with ladders that could be removed to give themselves more protection. Eventually stone steps were added after a couple hundred years that today make the monasteries more accessible. There were 24 monasteries here at one time- only 6 remain today, most from the 1300s to 1500s.

After driving the roads up in the rocks, we visited the Natural History and Mushroom museum in the town…because who has ever heard of a mushroom museum? lol
It was literally just like 4 dioramas of taxidermy and fake mushrooms for the mushroom museum. lol but it was fun.
We got some mushroom chocolate in the gift shop. We tried both on the drive. We didn’t like either of them. ha The milk chocolate one with the Amanita Caesarea mushrooms tasted like oranges… and the black truffle one was STRONG of truffle. Maybe with a very dry glass of wine… but we’ll never know because they went into the trash can. ha
We arrived at our hotel around 5pm – pretty early! It was very nice….
A welcome bottle of Tsipouro – an unaged brandy from Greece, similar to grappa in that its a strong liquor made from the leftover grape skins from wine making. Straight battery acid, not going to lie. ha
The restaurant on site was listed online as the best restaurants in the town… so we ate there.
It had a lovely panoramic view over Lake Pamvotida.
Oh great… another courtesy shot of Tsipouro. Actually- this one was much smoother and better than the quality of the one in the room. Night and day difference but still nothing I would ever seek out or purchase.
Norah decided to dip her finger in it and try it. This was the face that resulted from that. hahaha They brought her a shot, too! We told her to shoot it, but she wasn’t having it.
My starter was the Mutton Saganaki- amazing.
Kegan got the wild mushroom platter.
Norah’s main was Trahanoto – a smoky pork risotto with feta
I had the Beef medallions with vegetables. The demi-glaze was made with black truffle and it was so tender. Excellent meal.
Kegan’s came out as an event! ha On a three tier platter, the Tsingeli was served so that the waiter could pull the meat chunks off the skewer onto the plate. His came with a feta dip, a roasted red pepper version of the feta salad and as Kegan put it “everything au gratin potatoes hope they grow up to be”. lol
We were so full but the desserts looked to amazing..so we ordered them anyway… Kegan’s was a lemon pie.
Norah spotted Tiramisu before we ordered…so there was no getting out of that even if we didn’t want anything.
I got the Millefeuille Politia – their signature dessert and also happens to be my favorite dessert! I was very disappointed in myself that I had to leave half on the plate.
The exterior of the hotel restaurant.
Little old abandoned church behind our hotel room.

Next post will be our final day in Greece and travel home. Hopefully it will be a short, sweet uneventful wrap up. 🙂

Greece Day 5 -Corinth, Nemea, Mycenae and Nafplio

Today was our prebooked tour with George the taxi driver that I saw recommended on a Facebook group for Athens travel and he did not disappoint. He arrived to our hotel at 8am on the dot and we packed our suitcases into the car and were on our way for the day. He said his goal was to make all our friends jealous with our beautiful photos. ha I told him I would need friends first. George didn’t really understand my English sarcasm…but we managed ha

The road signs are very similar to American signs…and most of the Greek signage had an English version, too. George says its because 30% of the economy is tourism so they love tourists. ha

After an hour in the car or so, the first stop we made was at the Corinth Canal. An engineering marvel that took 2500 years to actually achieve. This narrow straight of land is all that separates the Ionian Sea from the Aegean Sea and would save ships from having to sail all around the Peloponnese peninsula.

Rulers from 600 BC forward have had plans to dig a canal here…including 4 Roman emperors. Nero actually started the work but then had to stop to fight off an invasion and then was killed… so work stopped. It wasn’t until 1890 that this canal was actually created and ships could pass through it, saving 430 miles of sailing.

The older ruler to think about digging the canal was named Periander and after he consulted the Oracle of Delphi and it was recommended that if Apollo wanted the seas to connect, he would have designed them that way… he tried to resolve the problem by building the famous Diolkos. The Diolkos was a special road paved with slabs of limestone covered in wood from which ships greased with fat were pulled over land by oxen and slaves. Ships were loaded on special vehicles and were carried/pushed over dry land through Diolkos while the goods had been offloaded from the ships and were transported by pack animals. This idea was very successful because the ships of the era were much smaller dimensions than today. George took us by this ancient road to see what remains.

There is also a modern submersible bridge. Usually the bridges open up for ships to pass through. This one submerges under the water at a depth of 40 feet to allow passing ships. He said many years ago that locals would wait for the bridge to resurface after a ship passed and collect the fish that were stuck in the bridge. Smart fishing!
The site of Ancient Corinth was closed for today but we could still peek in at the ruins through the fence where you can see the columns of the Temple of Apollo. Corinth was the wealthiest city in ancient Greece with fertile soil and its strategic position on the peninsula. The Diolkos helped that, too. If you are Christian- it is said that the Apostle Paul visited Corinth around 50AD and created the first church of Corinth where he met Priscilla and Aquila who became two of the Seventy Disciples. His letter to the Corinthians (1st and 2nd Corinthians) are a major part of the New Testament.
A view from the ruins up towards the acropolis of Corinth – or the Acrocorinth – the impenetrable fortress that protected the land route into the Peloponnese peninsula. From here the military could monitor all activity by land and by sea.
There were a LOT of steps in the pouring rain to get up here… but worth it.
The rocks were so slippery from the rain, we didn’t go all the way to the top… since it was all in ruins anyway, we made it through the gates and could see all around (what wasn’t obscured by fog anyway)

Back in the car for our next stop in wine country.

The winery we had made reservations for a tour and tasting was outside the town of Nemea which has this huge rock outcropping with houses way up the side back in the mountain.

We chose the Bairaktaris winery on the recommendation of George and were given a tour.

They use all of their own vines for their wines and most of them are the Agiorgitiko variety as a base.
They had one variety called Terra Opus that they aged in these clay pots- called amphora like the ancients would have stored wine.
We selected the 4 wine tasting- then added on 2 red premium tasting. So, we tasted a white, a rose, 2 reds – then 2 premium reds, including the Terra Opus from the clay amphora. Overall, my favorite was a $14 bottle vs the $60 bottle lol
Norah read all of the tasting notes and decided that she wanted to taste the last wine of the tasting- the 3/.13 dessert wine. She liked the smell, but quickly on just a tad sip was not a fan. The host asked “does she drink?” when we sat down- she was totally going to give her a full tasting, too! ha

Having the equivalent of 3 full glasses of wine at noon made the cold rain better. ha We then continued on to the ancient site of Mycanae.

The Mycanaens were the pre-Greeks – at this site and flourishing as early as 1600 BC.

The first site we visited was the Citadel which is fortified by the Cyclopean walls and the main entrance being the Lion’s Gate

3000 year old gate. Inside (which I apparently didn’t photograph because it was raining and I was less than thrilled to be cold and soaking wet) was a circular grave where they pulled tons of gold and other options from burials. The famous Mask of Agamemnon that I photographed on Day 2 at the National Archeologic Museum was found here at this site.
There was a small museum on site showcasing some items that have been excavated from the site.

We took a quick drive over the to the Treasury of Atrius or the Tomb of Agamemnon – a beehive domed tomb from 1300 BC.

After this visit, it was lunch time – George dropped us off at a recommended restaurant in Nafplio called Bounos.

We had fish soup
Octopus
Steamed mussels (and pan-fried shrimp and fired calamari that I forgot to photo)
Complementary panna cotta with chocolate, caramel and strawberry topping for dessert.

Afterwards, we were supposed to spend an hour walking around the town and seeing the sites, but it was still pouring rain, so we told George we were ready to head on back to Athens. He suggested he knew a spot were we could be out of the rain and get a great family photo – so we drove up to Palamidi fortress – a fortress built by the Venetians during their occupation in the 1600s- above the town to George’s secret photo spot.

George selfie!

George informed us that there was a taxi strike for today, people kept calling him to ask for rides and he had to say no. Thankfully, he did not cancel our trip since we had pre-booked.

We checked into a new hotel on the other side of Athens and said goodbye to George, but Norah wanted dinner… and looking there wasn’t much super close and walkable that looked good… but there was a sushi restaurant with a full 5 stars on Google… so we gave it a shot….and it was good!

Complimentary profiteroles after food.

Tomorrow morning we’ll rent our car and head out of the city to tour the north of Greece!

Greece- Athens Days 3 & 4

To start Day 3, we were supposed to do our Acropolis and Ancient Agora tour…but I got a message that the Agora would be closed for Sunday so I could either move it to a different day, do half of the tour…and cancel and refund. So, we moved it to Monday- but that meant that we would be doing the museum before the site and some smaller sites before the big ones…but we decided that was OK.

So, we had our hotel breakfast and headed out towards Lycabettus Hill in an Uber. Our Uber had to drop us off a half mile from the entrance due to a race we were crossing. Which meant I had to walk up hill AND pay for the Uber 🙂

Mount Lycabettus or Lycabettus Hill is a limestone hill that is 1000 ft above sea level and is the highest point in Athens. The name literally means “the hill walked by wolves” and the legend is that there were wolves who lived here.

There is a funicular railway that climbs the hill from the Kolonaki railway station at the base. We obviously paid to ride that up vs hiking the hill… but after learning it was 40 euro for 3 of us to ride it both ways, we thought about it lol Little pricey.

It wasnt a great weather day, a little rainy and a LOT windy… but just gotta get on with the tourist stuff when you can. ha You can literally see everything in Athens from this point. Up top there is a restaurant (which I learned later is apparently fine dining and very good- but it was like 10am…so no fine dining for us) and an old church..and an open air theater that a lot of big musicians have played at including Ray Charles, Bob Dylan, Black Sabbath and others

The Acropolis in the distance on the rocky plateau.
The Panathenaic Stadium that we were headed to next from one view
We made our way back down the funicular (which only runs every 30 minutes) and headed to the Stadium – called the Kallimarmaro or “beautiful marble” in Greek – it is the only stadium in the world built entirely out of white marble.
The original site is from 330BC was used for the Panathenian Games, but then it was renovated in 140BC giving it its marble stands and horseshoe shape. After the fall of Rome- most of the marble was looted, but a wealthy entrepreneur funded it’s full restoration in 1890. This construction holds 50,000 people was the site of the first modern Olympic games in 1896. It is still the Olympic flame handover site for Athens and its the finish line of the Athens Marathon.
Next we walked through a bit of the National Gardens of Athens towards the Zappeion – a building that was built to house fencing in the first Olympics and the exhibition hall and now is a multi-use building. They were having some sort of kid event with salsa dancing and performers on stilts and music as we walked through.
Interesting banner for Popcorn in greek on the cart.
Back through the gardens we found more interesting spots.
We popped out of the gardens at the Hellenic Parliament at Syntagma Square’s Tomb of the Unknown Solider for the changing of the guard ceremony. Once weekly at 11am on Sundays there is a whole parade and music and a big show of it… but hourly there is a small ceremony. We arrived at 12pm. Missed it by an hour!
The Evzones soldiers in traditional uniform including fustanella (skirt/kilt) and tsarouhia (pompom shoes) performing precise, slow-motion movements to switch out the guarding of the tomb.
After the ceremony, we popped back into the gardens to walk the rest of the sites
Bronze statue of Alexander the Great as a teenager- that actually was just placed here in 2019.
We walked past Hadrian’s Arch or Hadrian’s Gate- which was the city gate between the ancient road and the sites of the Temple of Olympian Zeus. It was built by the citizens of Athens to honor the arrival of the Roman emperor Hadrian in 132AD. Hadrian was bestowed Athenian citizenship in 112AD during a visit, so the inscriptions on the arch welcome him as an Athenian, not as an emperor. He really loved Greece and Athens and favored them with gifts and money during his reign as emperor.
Since this was the state of the Temple of Olympian Zeus, we decided that paying to go in and walk around didn’t make much sense… so we just looked around the grounds through the fence. The name “Olympian Zeus” just means the god Zeus of Mount Olympus. Construction began in 700 BC but didnt complete until Hadrian’s time some 600 years later. At its height it included 104 colossal columns and was the largest temple in Greece. It only stood in its full glory for about a hundred years before it was pillaged during a Germanic invasion. Then after the fall of Rome, the stone was quarried from here for other projects, leaving only 16 of the pillars
Aristotle wrote about this site in his “Politics” that it was hubris to build on such a scale. saying that these sort of “great works” was just tyranny engaging the populace for great works of the state and left them no time, energy or means to rebel.

It was time for some lunch, so we walked into the Plaka neighborhood at the base of the acropolis hill.

Tried to see the inside of the church and walked into the middle of service… decided not to. ha

We ate at a restaurant called Lyra we found nearby and it was amazing.

I wanted a cappucino and a coke. Coke apparently comes with lemon here. ha
Kegan decided red wine was sounding best for him.
Sheep meatballs
Pita with a chunky salsa type dip
Crispy potatoes
Grilled octopus with a hummus spread
Grilled lamp chops, served with more potatoes. I’m pretty sure Kegan ate the equivalent of like 3 whole potatoes cleaning up the extras when Norah and I were done. ha

We had sufficiently wasted enough time to allow for our Acropolis Museum 3pm entrance, so we headed that way. It was just in time, too becuase it started raining on us right as we got to the museum.

Overall, the museum was a bit underwhelming. It is cool that they have taken the original statues and stone carvings and housed them inside for preservation and created replicas at the Acropolis outdoors… and I know these are like ANCIENT and massive and all of that… but like, everything is so worn down its hard to even see what they were, so its just like walking through floors of melted wax figures that I’m sure are important…and worth seeing.. but I don’t know… I didn’t get much out of it. Everyone says you can’t miss this museum…I say you can 🙂

After the Acropolis museum, we were 11k steps in for the day and it was time for our afternoon siesta in the hotel room where I take my two hour nap and Norah gets her screen time in. ha

We booked another escape room for the evening, this time a 2 hour one. (Turns out after talking with the guy, there are no 1 hour escape rooms left in Athens, all 2-4 hours) We booked Death in Space at Escapepolis.

They had a very friendly and attention-loving dog named Liza. She was a sweet old girl.
We escaped in a little of half the time…so an easy room. Cool space ship type controls and electronics and screens, no puzzle locks or anything… but the music was SO loud during the entire thing we were all drained when it was over. I told the guy it was too loud and he was like, why didn’t you say something?? and I was like I did, like 5 times! – turns out I don’t think our game master monitoring us spoke English well (understandable!) so he didn’t hear me and the main guy who worked the front checked the controls and a water bottle had fallen and knocked a dial for the sound over way higher than it should have been. So between screaming music, a big chunky arm strap computer on my arm and the heat of the room, we were an overstimulated mess after an hour. haha But, all good- a fun room and concept.

We grabbed a quick takeaway box from the grill at the hotel (much more managable portions this time) and called it a night.

Day 4 started with breakfast at the hotel again- I finally remembered to take a photo of the spread.

We had to get up earlier than we like to get across Athens to our meeting point for a 9am starting tour. We got our headsets and checked in and headed to the Acropolis site.

While waiting on some in the group to use the bathroom, a cat nearby decided to make friends with this guy and crawled right into his lap for a cuddle. This is definitely how you get a cat. ha
The Theatre of Dionysus on the south slope of the acropolis hill – the original theater, the oldest theater, where the works of Sophocles, Aristophanes and Euripides were all performed.
Me, looking up at how high we’re going to be climbing in the next 30 minutes lol It didn’t end up being bad at all. The climb up was broken up into sites along the way that made it feel really reasonable to walk through.
Philopappos Monument in the distance from the base of the Acropolis. It is a 2nd century Roman mausoleum for a roman senator.
The famous Temple of Athena- or Parthenon- up close. Built in Doric style of Pentelic marble with 8 columns on the short sides and 17 on the long sides. Built in the 400s BC to celebrate the Greek victory over the Persians in the Greco-Persian Wars.
The Erechteion – on the north side of the acropolis
The Porch of the Maidens with the Caryatid statues
View of the west end of the Parthenon. If you look at the top- you can see them placing one of the stones as part of restoration activities. Restoration activities seem to be taking much longer than the original construction, which took about 15 years total, including the decorating, sculptures, and finish work after the 9-10 years required to build the main structure.
An overlook from the Acropolis down over the Agora – with the temple of Hephaestus that we would visit next on the second part of our tour.
View down over the greek theatre that we passed on our way up.
On the way out, we thought the underside of the Temple of Nike was pretty cool- how the ceiling was coffered like you still see today in some homes.
The Temple of Hephaestus – the god of workers – was used throughout history and then later as a church from the 7th century through the 1800s- so it remains in really good shape comparatively.
Maybe the first public free water access point. Greece built an acqueduct from the mountains and made it free for the people.
The Stoa of Athens- originally from 150BC, rebuilt to house the Agora museum in the 1950s. Its what the temple construction would have looked like when it was new to the people of ancient Athens with its long covered portico.

It rained on us pretty significantly during our Agora tour…so we looked around the museum after and then waited out the rain for 15 minutes or so before heading out to find some lunch.

After planning to go to a Greek restaurant we skipped another night, we Ubered there only to find it was now an Indian restaurant. ha So we searched again and found a charcuterie restaurant in between us and the hotel so we trekked it a few blocks there.

The shop is called Miran and is a 3rd generation family meat market with a few tables in the back.
Their menu had about 3 items on it – the meat platter, the eggs and meat and the pizza bread and meat. ha We selected the platter and Norah wanted the bread boat with cheese and meat. The waiter said “no, you want the eggs and meat” and talked us into it lol
The complementary Halva at the end was great with cinnamon dusted over the outside.
They are known for this meat that was on the platter- no idea what it is called. But it was like a rare cured beef with some sort of Indian type spices. (Edit: Kegan here- I, unknown to Erin, did the research on this place while she was typing. They are famous for their pastourma, a rare beef coated with Turkish spices and seen on the poster above, and their soujouk, the ground salami-like meat. Both of the recipes and techniques for these meats were from the founder of the place- Miran Kourounlian. Website is mirandeli.com if you want to ogle their meat…)

We continued our walk back to the hotel through a more working class normal neighborhood

A little corner grocery with salted fish outside
A shop that sold only eggs. Just big pallets of eggs only. ha
We stopped in to this Loukomades bakery that has been serving traditional Loukomades since 1912. Literally- they have water…and Loukomades, which are crispy fried dough balls soaked in honey and topped with sesame and cinnamon. Norah learned about these in 4th grade from a VR game called Lost Recipes where you make the lost recipes from different ancient cultures, and has been wanting to try them ever since. She said the 5 year wait was worth it- they were heaven.

The rest of Day 4 was very boring- we got back to the hotel around 4pm and we all slept for 4.5 hours after all of that walking today! ha So, here I sit at midnight typing the blog up… packing up suitcases after showering (apparently you have to shower and wash your hair on Monday Feb 16th this year because washing your hair on Tues Feb 17th on Chinese Lunar New Year will wash all of your good fortune for 2026 away! be aware!) If you were born in 1954, 1966, 1978, 1990, 2002, 2014 or 2026 – wear red this year to maximize YOUR year of the horse. 🙂

Tomorrow we check out of this hotel and have a full day tour outside of Athens to Ancient Corinth, a winery, Mycenae and other stops… see ya after!

Spring Break 2026 – Greece – Days 1&2

This year’s Mardi Gras break trip is to Greece! We will be spending 9 days total- 7 days in Greece, 2 traveling.

We started out Thursday evening after Norah got out of school and I was done with work- on a flight out of New Orleans direct to London. This was exciting because every time we fly international, we usually have to make the 5 hour drive to Houston but being able to fly right out of NOLA was *chef’s kiss*.

After the 8 hour flight to London we had a couple hours in Heathrow – Norah got a burger but nothing else to really write about.. then we got on our Athens flight- another 3.5 hours and by this point we were all sleepy-eyed. Most of this flight was just us sleeping.

By the time we got to Athens, it was 6:30pm local time. It took about 40 minutes to get through passport control… but our taxi was there waiting for us. Drove us the 45 minutes from the airport to our hotel on the north side of Athens- the Brown Acropol.

I was a little apprehensive because we were watching a YouTube guide to Athens and the guys was like “don’t book a hotel north of xxx street” and when I checked the map, we were two blocks north of “that” street. ha I had read a hundred reviews or so of the hotel prior to booking and the reviews seemed good and no one talked about it being a bad area. So we decided we’d show up and if we didn’t like it, we’d just get an Uber somewhere else. It was just fine….

On arrival at the desk, the guy asked if we would like a complimentary Prosecco while we check in- we said sure. And out came 3 glasses of prosecco. One for Kegan, one for me… and one handed to Norah. hahaha I 100% told her she could drink it if she wanted. She was served champagne, she could drink champagne. lol Miss Rule Follower waited until we got into the hotel room, then tried a sip and promptly handed it to me. haha
Our room is basically a big 2 bed apartment with 2 bathrooms, a kitchenette and an entry room.
There is a little record player in each room with a library of vinyls in the lobby you can swap out.
The room has two balconies- one off of each of the bedrooms
Norah enjoyed the disco ball in the hall and dances to the music every time we leave.
Since it was already late, we just crossed the street to a little restaurant with good Google reviews and were not disappointed. The guy talked us into ordering way more food than we planned to because he said he would make “for 1 person size” lol he did NOT in fact make “for 1 person size” the meals were big. and cheap. Each plate was $12 or under.
Greek lamb kebab for me
Grilled pork skewers for Norah
Meat sampler for Kegan – chicken souvlaki, pork souvlaki, grilled sausages of some sort. It was all excellent. We all ate off of each other’s plates until we were miserable and thirsty from all of the salt. ha

After dinner, it was back to the room around 11pm and time for bed. I was out about 5 seconds after my head hit the pillow.

For Day 2, which is really our first day in Greece, we started with hotel breakfast on the roof with a view of the Acropolis. It had a good spread for a hotel buffet breakfast – rasher bacon, eggs, sausages, norwegian specialties like pickled herring, anchovies and smoked salmon, cold cuts and cheese. Greek specialty pastries and breads as well as juices and coffee – and it was included with the room price, so it was fine with us.

Our first stop after breakfast was the National Archeological Museum.

It was a large museum with TONS of ancient pottery and small pieces. Here were some of my favorite items:

The Jockey of Artemision. It’s from approx 140 BC and cast in bronze. Found in a shipwreck, which explains why it survives since almost all bronze was melted down over the years for weapons and war.
Gold death masks from Mycenae
More Mycenean Gold
Mycanean death mask of Agamemnon – we’ll be visiting his tomb where this was discovered on Day 5
Bronze sword with stone and gold inlaid handle.
The Antikythera Mechanism – the world’s first “computer” – discovered in a shipwreck after 2000 years under water in 1901.. with mechanical dials that could track multiple celestial events and calendars. This technology wouldn’t be seen again for 1500 years after the age of this piece.
Norah’s favorite- the derpy short horse.
Preserved frescos from Santorini from the Ankrotiri site.
Rock crystal and bronze poppy pods
The bronze Artemision Zeus
Norah isn’t a huge museum person… but she usually sits patiently on whatever bench she can find until we’ve seen what we want.

After leaving the museum, we walked through the city to some other sites. I love all of the orange trees lining the streets.

Sculpture in Klafthmonos square
Panagia Kapnikarea church – an 11th century Byzantine church amazingly still standing in the middle of a modern square

Next Norah decided that a gelato shop we passed looked good so we stopped…and this was a great decision. Maybe the best ice cream I have ever had… a chain called Kayak Pure Magic Ice Cream. I recommend you look it up in Athens.

I had the Dark Forest Fruits Chocolate with glacé cherries and raspberries in a rich dark chocolate ice cream that was so rich and thick it tasted like a truffle. Amazing.
Kegan had the Cream with Pistachio, Anthotyro Cheese and Fig – and it was awesome, too.
Norah had a bubble waffle coated in Nutella with a scoop of tiramisu ice cream and was thrilled. ha
Next was the Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos and Saint Eleutherius
Next to the cathedral is the old Byzantine church known as “little Metropolis” and was Athens’ cathedral during the Ottoman period.
We walked past the site of Hadrian’s library. I believe this site is included in our tour of the Acropolis and the Agora on Day 4…so we didn’t pay to enter- just got some photos from the perimeter. Many cats which Norah loves.
We also saw a turtle roaming around the Hadrian”s library grounds. So random, but cool.
The West Wall of Hadrian’s library that remains standing.
Lunch was at a place called Zisis which had take-away cones of fried fish. We had this in Venice and loved it, so why not give it another shot.
We ended up with Squid, small Shrimps, sand smelt, anchovies and fries to share.
We carried it back to the hotel and ate it on our balcony.
Kegan was sitting on the balcony and spotted this stumpy little fire truck and thought it was funny.

After a late lunch we had a two hour rest in the hotel and then headed out to catch an Uber to our evening activity- a 3 hour escape room at Paradox Project.

With no spoilers- the basic idea is that our uncle had invited us over to the mansion, but when we arrived, we found that he had been kidnapped and we have to find clues to help him and find his hidden jewel. Once we found our way through most rooms, we learn that he actually faked the kidnapping and we are being framed with a fake jewel while he escapes with the real one… and we have to solve more puzzles before the police arrive.

We escaped and completed all puzzles. Our game master said she was very impressed with us. We were a great team and did better than almost all teams. We didn’t tell her we’ve now done over 100 escape rooms. ha

We didn’t want a whole sit down meal at 11pm, but we wanted something…so we stopped by a little turkish food stall right outside the escape room venue.

I forgot to take photos until we were halfway through eating… but we got a couple pizza boat things with egg and bacon, and pepporoni, a sausage filled phyllo dough rope thing ( on the right above) and a pig in a blanket hot dog thing. They were all greasy but good, and total was $15 for everything plus drinks.

In Italy and apparently in Greece this sell this Bitter Lemon drink… it is a lightly carbonated lemonade with bitters and I love it. So excited to have these this week.

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